Universal Genève Polerouter Date Ref. 869111/01 - 'Tropical' Dial

Universal Genève was one of the many great brands that succumbed to the quartz crisis of the 1970s. While they disappeared, it was not for their lack of impressive watches. To underscore that fact, the Henri Stern Watch Agency in their nearly 80-year history has only ever sold two brands: Patek Philippe, and Universal Genève.

One of, if not the model line that UG is best known for, is the Polerouter.

Born from the genius of a young, 23-year old Gérald Genta — long before his name became synonymous with icons — the Polerouter is a watch that speaks to both the soul and the mind of the collector. Originally conceived to commemorate SAS’s pioneering flights over the north pole from Copenhagen to Los Angeles, it’s far more than a handsome vintage piece; it’s a true milestone in mid-century horology. With its distinctive aesthetic, refined movement, and enduring legacy, the Polerouter checks all of the boxes for the vintage connoisseur — a surprisingly rare occurrence.

The example that we have here, a Polerouter Date from circa the mid-1960s, is probably what comes to mind when you hear "Polerouter." It features a 35mm case with the characteristic 'twisted' lugs, a 'U' signed crown, and a screw-down caseback with the 'SAS polar route' engraving. Inside, the dial is framed with another Polerouter signature design characteristic: the engine-turned steel chapter ring. Being a date model, there is a partial cutout in said chapter ring to accommodate the framed date aperture. Additionally, the date disc within bears some of the best font in the industry, with some delightfully whimsical characters. This piece also retains its original crystal, with a 'U' signature etched into the center above the post, and an asymmetrical cyclops above the date aperture.

All of these details are textbook Polerouter and a delight to behold, but it must be said that it is the dial in this example that is the real highlight... Originally glossy black in color, it has aged to a gorgeous brown tone, resulting in a stunning gradient 'tropical' patina. The surface retains its beautiful brass-tone 'crosshair,' text, and equally beautiful applied 'U' logo at the 12 o'clock position.

This piece is powered by what is probably the most desirable movement found in any Polerouter: an automatic-winding 'micro rotor' movement. UG was able to design a movement with the 'Microtor' embedded into the movement architecture, which results in a movement that is self-winding, but also thin. This is yet another Polerouter hallmark: they are thin.

It is the culmination of details like the dynamic and perfectly-sized case, the dial layout with the asymmetrical date aperture, the efficient and innovative movement design, and the fantastic build quality that clearly show why Universal Genève is considered to be one of the finest manufactures in the era.

...and its only once it's on your wrist, that these details become apparent. They keep on delivering and continue to impress no matter what else might finds its way into your collection and that's why collectors are always on the lookout for standout examples like this one.