The History of Leather Watch Straps
Handmade leather watch straps from JPM in Italy and Molequin in France, in cervo, grained, Saffiano and nubuck leather. Every strap comes in 18, 19 and 20mm, sized for vintage watches.
Leather Watch Straps Made for Vintage Watches
A great strap can change a watch completely, which is why leather watch straps matter so much. So we made our own. In fact, our leather watch straps were built for the watches we sell every day. They are slim, soft and made by hand. And they fit vintage cases the way a strap should.
At Oliver & Clarke, we work with two small makers. First, there is JPM, a strap maker in Italy. Then, there is Molequin, a strap maker in France. Together, they make every one of our leather watch straps by hand. Each one is co-branded with Oliver & Clarke.
This page holds our full range of leather watch straps. Right now, that includes 17 straps in colors from honey and tan to navy, green and black. Also, every strap comes in 18, 19 and 20mm. For the watches to wear them with, see our full collection of vintage watches.
Below is our guide to leather watch straps. First, it covers the leathers we use and the terms you will see. Then, it explains how to measure your watch, how to pick a color and how to care for your strap.
Why Leather Watch Straps Matter
Most people think about the watch first. However, the strap is half of what you see on the wrist. So it is worth getting right.
A Strap Changes the Look
Put a gold watch on black leather, and it looks formal. Then put the same watch on tan suede, and it looks relaxed. In other words, one watch can have many moods. That is the power of good leather watch straps.
A Strap Tells a Story
Leather watch straps also say something about you. For example, a crisp black strap feels sharp and formal. Meanwhile, a soft tan strap feels easy and warm. So the strap you pick is part of your style, not just part of the watch.
A Strap Changes the Feel
A stiff, thick strap can make a small watch feel clumsy. By contrast, a slim, soft strap lets it sit flat and close to the wrist. As a result, the watch feels lighter and looks more elegant.
Vintage Watches Need the Right Strap
Many vintage watches are 34 to 36mm across. So a modern, chunky strap can overwhelm them. Our leather watch straps are cut thin and tapered, so they suit smaller cases. In fact, that is why we made them.
A Strap Wears Out First
Leather is natural, so leather watch straps age with use. Over time, even the best strap will soften, crease and stretch. That is normal. Still, it means a fresh strap is one of the easiest ways to make an old watch feel new again.
Our Two Makers
We chose our makers for one reason: they make the kind of leather watch straps we want to wear.
JPM, Italy
JPM leather watch straps are made by Jean Paul Mennecuci in his small workshop in Italy. Each strap is cut and stitched by hand. As a result, every one is soft from the first day. Over time, it develops its own patina. We carry JPM straps in cervo leather and in vintage-style leathers with distressed stitching.
Molequin, France
Molequin leather watch straps use handmade calfskin produced in France. The leather is cut very thin, so it looks refined. Even so, it stays strong and holds its shape. In addition, it resists scratches and wipes clean with a damp cloth. We carry Molequin straps in grained, Saffiano and nubuck leather.
Co-Branded With Oliver & Clarke
Every one of these leather watch straps is made for us and carries both names. In other words, these leather watch straps are not off-the-shelf. They are made to our spec, for the watches we sell.
Small Batches
Our makers produce leather watch straps in small batches. As a result, some colors sell out and come back later. So if you see leather watch straps you love here, it is best not to wait.
Why Handmade Matters
Machine-made leather watch straps are fine. But a handmade strap is better. The edges are finished with care, the stitching is tight and the leather is chosen piece by piece. So it lasts longer, and it looks better as it ages.
Terms Worth Knowing
Strap makers use a few terms of their own. So before you shop for leather watch straps, here is what they mean.
Lug width. The gap between the two lugs on your watch, measured in millimeters. It sets the width of the strap you need.
Spring bar. The small spring-loaded pin that holds a strap between the lugs.
Tang buckle. A classic pin buckle, like a belt. All of our leather watch straps come with a polished steel tang buckle.
Taper. How much a strap narrows from the lugs to the buckle. A good taper makes a watch look more elegant.
Cervo. Italian for "deer." Cervo leather is deerskin, prized for its soft, silky feel.
Calfskin. Leather from young cattle. It is smooth, strong and fine-grained.
Grained leather. Leather with a natural pebbled surface. It hides scratches well.
Saffiano. A fine crosshatch pattern pressed into leather. It is crisp, tough and easy to clean.
Nubuck. Leather sanded on the outer side for a soft, velvety feel, a bit like suede.
Taurillon. French for "young bull." Our nubuck straps come from Molequin's Taurillon Nubuck collection.
Patina. The natural darkening and softening of leather over time.
Keeper. The small loop that holds the loose end of a strap in place.
Contrast stitching. Stitching in a different color from the leather, so it stands out.
The Leathers We Use
Each leather has its own look and feel, so leather watch straps vary a lot. So the right one depends on your watch and your style.
Cervo (JPM)
Cervo is deerskin, and it is one of the softest leathers there is. In fact, our Cervo Brown is one of the most comfortable straps we have ever tried. We carry cervo leather watch straps in brown, taupe, grey and wheat.
Vintage Leather (JPM)
Our vintage-style JPM straps have a warm, worn-in look, with distressed stitching. For example, the Sienna Brown and DG Dark Brown suit older watches with patina. Meanwhile, the Messico Tan and Alpina Honey bring a lighter, sunnier tone.
Grained Calfskin (Molequin)
Molequin's grained straps have a fine pebbled surface. They come in brown, sand, green, navy and grey. As a result, they cover almost every watch and every season.
Saffiano Calfskin (Molequin)
The Saffiano strap has a crisp crosshatch texture. It looks sharp and stays clean. So it is ideal for a dress watch, a business suit or an evening out.
Taurillon Nubuck (Molequin)
Finally, our nubuck straps are sanded for a plush, velvet-like feel. They come in Granite and Alzan. Both look relaxed and rich at the same time.
Steel Tang Buckles
Every strap comes with a polished stainless steel tang buckle. It suits steel watches, and it looks clean on gold watches too.
Which Leather Is Right for You?
If you want soft and broken-in, choose cervo. If you want crisp and tailored, choose Saffiano. If you want a pebbled, everyday look, choose grained. And if you want plush and relaxed, choose nubuck. In short, there are leather watch straps for every taste.
How to Find the Right Size
Size is the most important part of choosing leather watch straps. Fortunately, it is easy to get right.
Measure the Lug Width
First, take off the old strap, or look between the lugs. Then, measure the gap from the inside of one lug to the inside of the other, in millimeters. That number is your lug width.
Our Sizes: 18, 19 and 20mm
All of our leather watch straps come in 18, 19 and 20mm. Many vintage watches fall in this range. For example, many vintage Rolex Datejusts and Submariners use 20mm. Meanwhile, many 34 to 36mm dress watches use 18 or 19mm.
Odd Sizes Matter
Some vintage watches use 19mm, an odd size that is hard to find. In fact, that is one reason we stock it. A 20mm strap will not fit a 19mm gap. And an 18mm strap will look loose.
When in Doubt, Ask
If you are not sure of your lug width, ask us. Also, if you bought your watch from us, tell us which one. Then we can tell you the right size.
Common Sizes by Watch Size
As a rough guide, many 34mm to 36mm vintage dress watches use 18mm or 19mm leather watch straps. Meanwhile, many 36mm to 40mm sport and gold watches use 20mm. Still, always measure, because every watch is different.
Length and Fit
Our leather watch straps come in a standard length that suits most wrists. Still, if your wrist is very small or very large, contact us before you buy. We will tell you how a strap will fit.
How to Pick a Color
Choosing a color is the fun part of buying leather watch straps. Still, a few simple rules help.
Brown and Tan
Brown is the most versatile color for leather watch straps. In fact, it works with gold, steel, silver dials and black dials. Meanwhile, tan and honey feel lighter, so they suit summer and casual wear.
Black
Black is the classic dress choice for leather watch straps. So it pairs well with white gold, steel and formal clothes. Every collector should have one.
Green
Green adds a rich, unexpected note. In particular, we love it with yellow and rose gold. Still, it works with any metal.
Navy and Grey
Navy suits steel watches with blue or silver dials. Similarly, grey is quiet and modern, so it suits steel and white gold.
Sand and Nubuck Tones
Sand, Granite and Alzan bring texture and warmth. As a result, they make a dress watch feel more relaxed.
Seasonal Colors
Many collectors change leather watch straps with the seasons. For example, tan, honey and sand feel right in spring and summer. Then, dark brown, green and navy feel right in fall and winter. As a result, one watch can feel new four times a year.
Match the Dial, Not Just the Case
Finally, look at the dial as well as the case. For example, a tropical brown dial looks great on brown leather. Likewise, a cream or patinated dial shines on tan.
Pairing Straps With Vintage Watches
Our leather watch straps were made for the watches we sell. Here are a few pairings we love.
Rolex Day-Date and Datejust
A gold Day-Date on dark brown or green leather looks relaxed and rich. Meanwhile, a steel Datejust on navy or grey feels modern. See our vintage Rolex watches.
Cartier Tank
A Tank almost always wears on leather. So a slim strap in black or brown is ideal. Browse our vintage Cartier watches.
Patek Philippe Calatrava
A gold Calatrava suits brown cervo or black Saffiano. In fact, a slim strap keeps it looking as elegant as the day it was made. See our vintage Patek Philippe watches.
Audemars Piguet Dress Watches
AP's gold dress watches look superb on dark leather. For example, try a stone-dial piece on black or navy. See our vintage Audemars Piguet watches.
Chronographs
A vintage chronograph looks great on tan, honey or nubuck. So try a Movado M95 or a Universal Geneve Compax on a warmer leather. See our vintage Movado watches and vintage Universal Geneve watches.
Tudor and Sport Watches
Even a dive watch can wear leather. For example, a Tudor Ranger or Oyster looks great on grained brown or green. See our vintage Tudor watches.
Gold Watches
Gold watches look their best on leather. In fact, brown, green and black leather watch straps all bring out the warmth of yellow and rose gold. So if your gold watch is on a worn strap, a fresh one can make a big difference.
Steel Watches
Steel watches are the most flexible. For example, navy, grey and black give a clean, modern look. Meanwhile, tan and honey make steel feel warmer. In short, almost any of our leather watch straps will suit a steel watch.
Caring for Leather Watch Straps
Good leather watch straps last for years. Still, a little care helps leather watch straps look their best.
Keep It Dry
Water is the biggest enemy of leather watch straps. So take your watch off before you wash your hands, swim or shower. If a strap gets wet, let it dry slowly at room temperature.
Wipe It Clean
Molequin calfskin wipes clean with a damp cloth. Meanwhile, brush nubuck gently with a soft brush. Avoid harsh cleaners on any leather.
Rotate Your Straps
Wearing the same strap every day wears it out faster, even with the best leather watch straps. So keep two or three and switch between them. As a result, each one lasts longer.
Store Them Well
Keep spare leather watch straps flat in a cool, dry place. Also, keep them out of direct sun, which can fade the color. That way, they are ready when you want them.
Let the Patina Grow
Over time, leather darkens and softens. That is a good thing. In fact, a well-worn JPM strap becomes more beautiful each year.
Replace When Needed
When a strap cracks, frays or stretches near the holes, it is time for a new one. After all, a worn strap can fail and put your watch at risk.
How to Change a Strap
Changing leather watch straps is simple once you know how. Still, go slowly to protect your watch.
Use the Right Tool
First, use a spring bar tool. It has a forked tip that pushes the spring bar in. Also, place the watch on a soft cloth so the case does not get scratched.
Remove the Old Strap
Next, slide the fork between the strap and the lug. Then press the spring bar in and ease the strap out. Repeat on the other side.
Fit the New Strap
Then, put the spring bar into the new strap. Fit one end into the lug hole, press the other end in and let it click into place. Finally, give the strap a gentle tug to make sure it is secure.
Protect Your Lugs
Vintage cases are precious. So take care not to scratch the lugs. If you are unsure, ask a watchmaker to fit the strap for you.
How Often to Change
There is no rule. Some people change leather watch straps every season, and others change them only when they wear out. Either way, a quick change is the easiest way to refresh a watch.
Buying From Oliver & Clarke
We sell leather watch straps for the same reason we sell vintage watches: we love them, and we wear them.
Made for Our Watches
First, every strap was made to suit the watches we sell. So you know it will look right on a vintage case.
Fair Prices
Our leather watch straps cost $115 to $125. In other words, you get a handmade strap from Italy or France for less than many mass-made brands charge.
Help Choosing
Not sure which strap to pick? Ask us. In fact, we are glad to suggest a color and size for any watch, whether you bought it from us or not.
Visit the Showroom
Of course, you can also see our leather watch straps in person at our Los Angeles showroom, 6363 Wilshire Boulevard, by appointment.
Questions and Returns
For shipping and returns, see our Customer Care page. Also, our team is glad to help with any question.
A Great Gift
Leather watch straps make a great gift for anyone who loves watches. They are useful, personal and easy to choose once you know the lug width. So if you are shopping for someone, ask us, and we will help you pick.
Our View, After Years of Strap Changes
Life is too short to wear a boring watch. And a great strap is the easiest way to make any watch less boring.
First, size matters most. A strap that fits the lugs perfectly looks right every time.
Second, own more than one of our leather watch straps. Two or three leather watch straps give one watch many looks.
Third, go thin on vintage. The best leather watch straps for older watches are slim. Slim, tapered straps suit smaller cases best.
Fourth, let it age. Leather gets better with wear.
Finally, have fun with color. Some of our favorite pairings were the ones we least expected.
Leather Watch Straps Questions
What size leather watch strap do I need?
You need a strap that matches your watch's lug width, the gap between the two lugs, in millimeters. All of our leather watch straps come in 18, 19 and 20mm. So measure the gap from the inside of one lug to the inside of the other.
First, take off the old strap, or measure with the strap still on. Use a ruler or calipers, and measure in millimeters. Then pick the strap that matches that number exactly. A 20mm strap will not fit a 19mm gap. Likewise, an 18mm strap will look loose in a 19mm gap. Many vintage watches use 18, 19 or 20mm. For example, many vintage Rolex Datejusts and Submariners use 20mm. Meanwhile, many smaller dress watches use 18 or 19mm. However, some very small or very old watches use narrower sizes, which we do not carry right now. So if you are unsure, ask us. In fact, if you bought your watch from us, just tell us which one. Then we can confirm the right size for you. Getting the size right is the most important step in choosing leather watch straps.
Will your leather watch straps fit my vintage watch?
Most likely, yes. Our leather watch straps were made for vintage watches. They are cut thin and tapered, so they suit 34 to 40mm cases. They come in 18, 19 and 20mm, which covers many vintage Rolex, Patek, Movado and Universal Geneve pieces.
Many modern straps are thick and wide. As a result, they can overwhelm a small vintage case. By contrast, our leather watch straps sit close to the wrist and keep the watch looking slim. Still, fit depends on your lug width. So measure the gap between the lugs first. Also, check the spring bar holes. Some older watches have tight spaces between the lugs and the case. In that case, a slim strap like ours is ideal. If your watch has unusual lugs, such as hinged or wire lugs, ask us before you buy. We will tell you honestly whether a strap will fit. In addition, our team is glad to suggest a color and leather for your watch. So send us a photo, and we will help. After all, our leather watch straps were designed around the vintage watches we sell.
What is the difference between JPM and Molequin straps?
JPM straps are handmade in Italy by Jean Paul Mennecuci, mostly in soft cervo and vintage-style leathers. Molequin straps are handmade from French calfskin, cut thin, in grained, Saffiano and nubuck finishes. Both are co-branded with Oliver & Clarke.
JPM straps feel soft and broken-in from the first day. In particular, the cervo leather is silky and supple. Over time, they develop a rich patina. So they suit watches with warmth and character. Meanwhile, Molequin straps feel crisp and refined. The French calfskin is cut very thin, yet it stays strong and holds its shape. Also, it resists scratches and wipes clean with a damp cloth. As a result, Molequin straps suit dress watches and daily wear alike. Both makers finish every strap by hand. And both come with a polished steel tang buckle. In short, choose JPM for softness and patina, and choose Molequin for a clean, tailored look. Of course, many collectors own both. Either way, you get handmade leather watch straps that suit vintage cases.
What is cervo leather?
Cervo is Italian for "deer," so cervo leather is deerskin. It is one of the softest leathers used for watch straps. It feels silky from the first day, and it molds to your wrist over time. Our JPM cervo straps come in brown, taupe, grey and wheat.
Deerskin has a fine, open grain. As a result, it is soft and flexible, yet still strong. In fact, our Cervo Brown is one of the most comfortable straps we have ever tried. Cervo also takes on a gentle patina with wear. So the strap becomes more personal the longer you own it. Because it is so soft, cervo suits watches you wear often. It also suits smaller vintage cases, since it does not feel stiff. However, like all leather, cervo should stay dry. So take your watch off before washing your hands or swimming. If it does get wet, let it dry slowly at room temperature. Finally, rotate it with other straps to help it last longer. In short, cervo is one of the most comfortable leathers for leather watch straps.
Which leather watch strap color should I choose?
Brown is the most versatile color for leather watch straps. It works with gold, steel and almost any dial. Black is the classic dress choice. Meanwhile, green, navy, grey, tan and nubuck tones add personality and suit casual wear.
Start with the metal of your watch. For example, yellow and rose gold look great on brown, green or tan. Meanwhile, steel and white gold suit black, navy and grey. Next, look at the dial. A tropical brown dial pairs well with brown leather. Similarly, a cream or patinated dial shines on tan or honey. Then think about where you will wear it. Black Saffiano suits suits and evenings, while nubuck and tan feel relaxed. Also, think about the season. Lighter tones feel right in summer, and darker tones feel right in winter. In the end, there are no hard rules. In fact, some of our favorite pairings were the ones we least expected. So ask us, and we will suggest a few options for your watch. Also, owning two or three leather watch straps in different colors gives one watch many looks.
How long do leather watch straps last?
With good care, a quality leather strap can last for years. However, how long it lasts depends on how often you wear it, the climate and how well you keep it dry. Rotating two or three straps helps each one last much longer.
Leather is natural, so it ages with use. Over time, it softens, creases and darkens. That is normal, and it adds character. In fact, a well-worn JPM strap often looks better after a year than on day one. Still, every strap wears out in the end. So watch for cracks, fraying or stretching near the holes. When you see them, it is time for a new strap. After all, a worn strap can fail and put your watch at risk. To make a strap last, keep it dry and out of direct heat. Also, let it rest between wears. Rotating straps is the easiest way to do this. As a result, many collectors keep two or three straps for each watch they wear often. With care, good leather watch straps often outlast the habits of the people who wear them.
Can I wear a leather watch strap in water?
No. Water is leather's biggest enemy. It can stain, stiffen and weaken a strap. So take your watch off before you swim, shower or wash your hands. In addition, vintage watches are not water resistant, so keeping them dry protects the watch too.
Even a small splash can leave marks on some leathers. Nubuck and cervo are the most sensitive. Meanwhile, Molequin's grained and Saffiano calfskin cope a little better with light moisture. Still, no leather likes water. If your strap does get wet, pat it dry with a soft cloth. Then let it dry slowly at room temperature. Avoid hair dryers, heaters or direct sun, because fast drying can crack the leather. Sweat matters too. So in hot weather, let your strap air out between wears. In fact, this is another good reason to rotate straps. Finally, remember that vintage watches themselves are not water resistant. So treating your strap with care also protects the watch it holds. For that reason, leather watch straps are best for dry days, the office and evenings out.
How do I clean a leather watch strap?
For Molequin calfskin, wipe the strap gently with a damp cloth, then let it dry. For nubuck, use a soft brush instead of water. For JPM cervo and vintage leather, a dry, soft cloth is usually enough. Avoid harsh cleaners on any strap.
Clean your strap now and then, especially in warm weather. First, take it off the watch, so you do not get moisture near the case. Next, wipe or brush the leather gently. For grained and Saffiano calfskin, a slightly damp cloth works well. For nubuck, brush in one direction to lift the nap. Then, let the strap dry fully at room temperature. Also, avoid soaps, alcohol and household cleaners. They can dry out the leather and fade the color. Some collectors use a leather conditioner once in a while. If you do, test it on the back of the strap first. Finally, store spare straps flat in a cool, dry place. That way, they keep their shape and color. A little care keeps leather watch straps looking good for years.
Do your straps come with a buckle?
Yes. Every one of our leather watch straps comes with a polished stainless steel tang buckle. It is a classic pin buckle, like a belt buckle. It suits steel watches, and it looks clean and simple on gold watches too.
A tang buckle is the most traditional way to close a watch strap. It is also the easiest to adjust. In addition, it puts less strain on the leather than many folding clasps. Our buckles have a high-polish finish, so they look sharp next to a vintage case. Some collectors like to fit an original buckle from their watch's maker. For example, an original gold buckle can add to the look and value of a vintage piece. If you have one, you can move it to your new strap. Simply remove the small spring bar at the buckle end, swap the buckle and refit the bar. Of course, if you need help, ask a watchmaker. Our team is also glad to answer any questions. In short, all of our leather watch straps are ready to wear out of the box.
How do I change a leather watch strap?
Use a spring bar tool. First, press the spring bar in with the forked tip and ease the old strap out. Then, put the spring bar into the new strap, fit one end into the lug hole and press the other end in until it clicks.
Changing a strap takes only a few minutes. Still, go slowly. First, lay the watch face down on a soft cloth, so the case and crystal stay safe. Next, slide the fork of the tool between the strap and the lug. Then press the spring bar in and ease the strap away. Repeat on the other side. After that, fit the spring bar into the new strap. Place one end into a lug hole. Then press the other end in with the tool and guide it into the second hole until it clicks. Finally, tug the strap gently to make sure it is secure. Vintage cases are precious, so take care not to scratch the lugs. If you are unsure, ask a watchmaker to fit it. Once you have done it once, swapping leather watch straps becomes quick and easy.
How much are your leather watch straps?
Our leather watch straps cost $115 to $125. JPM cervo and leather straps are $115 to $125, and Molequin grained, Saffiano and nubuck straps are $120. Every strap is handmade in Italy or France and comes with a steel tang buckle.
For a handmade strap, that is a fair price. In fact, many mass-made brands charge as much or more. The difference is in the details. For example, our makers choose the leather piece by piece, finish the edges by hand and stitch every strap with care. As a result, these leather watch straps look better and last longer. In addition, every strap is made for vintage watches, so it is slim, soft and tapered. Many of our clients buy two or three straps at once. That way, they can change the look of one watch for different days and seasons. Also, a new strap makes a great gift for anyone who loves watches. If you need help choosing, ask us, and we will suggest a few options. Compared with many leather watch straps on the market, ours offer more craft for the money.
Find Your Next Strap at Oliver & Clarke
Our leather watch straps are handmade in Italy and France, sized for vintage watches and priced fairly. Looking for the watch to go with one? Browse our vintage watches, or see what we have sold in the O&C Archive. Want to know who you are buying from? Read our story.
Want help choosing, or want to see the straps in person? Book an appointment at our Los Angeles showroom. Selling or trading a watch? Start with Sell Your Watch. For anything else, visit Customer Care or email info@oliverandclarke.com.