The History of Movado Watches
Chronographs, calendars and Art Deco curved watches from one of Switzerland's most inventive makers. Every one of our vintage Movado watches is hand-selected for condition and authenticated for life.
Vintage Movado Watches, Chosen One at a Time
Today, most people know Movado for the Museum Watch and its single dot at twelve. However, the Movado of the 1910s through the 1960s was something else entirely. Back then, it was one of the most creative watch makers in Switzerland. In fact, vintage Movado watches compete with far more famous names on design, finishing and movements.
At Oliver & Clarke, we buy vintage Movado watches in exceptional condition. That means honest cases, original dials and movements that run the way they should. So far, we have sold more than 35 Movado watches. Many were M95 chronographs, but we have also handled Polyplans, Calendografs, Sub Seas and pieces retailed by Cartier and Tiffany & Co. In addition, many of ours are unpolished.
This page holds our current inventory of vintage Movado watches. Right now, that includes an M95 chronograph, a Calendograf, a Tempomatic, a Novoplan and several dress watches with sector and brushed dials. When a watch sells, it moves to the O&C Archive. There, you can see every Movado we have handled. To browse every brand we carry, visit our full collection of vintage watches.
Below is our guide to vintage Movado watches. First, it covers where the brand came from and the terms in our listings. Then, it explains what to check before you buy and what these watches cost today.
From La Chaux-de-Fonds to the Museum of Modern Art
The story of vintage Movado watches starts with a 19-year-old in the Swiss Jura.
1881: The Ditesheim Workshop
Achille Ditesheim opened a small workshop in La Chaux-de-Fonds in 1881. Soon, his brothers joined him. Together, they built the business into one of the largest watch factories in town.
1905: "Always in Motion"
In 1905, the brothers adopted the name Movado. It means "always in motion" in Esperanto. As a result, the name became a promise of innovation, and the company kept it for years.
1912: The Polyplan
Movado patented the Polyplan in 1912. Its movement sits on three planes, so it can follow the curve of the wrist. In other words, Movado could put a full-size movement in a long, curved case. Today, the Polyplan is one of the most important vintage Movado watches ever made.
The 1920s and 1930s: Art Deco
Next came the Ermeto, a purse watch that wound itself as you opened its sliding cover. Movado also made curved Novoplans, sector dials and elegant rectangular watches. Many of these vintage Movado watches show Art Deco design at its best.
The 1940s: Chronographs and Calendars
During the 1940s, Movado built its own chronograph movements, the M90 and the M95. It also made the Calendograf calendar watches and the automatic Tempomatic. Meanwhile, its waterproof cases came from François Borgel, the same case maker used by some of the greatest names in Geneva.
1961: The Museum Watch
Designer Nathan George Horwitt created the Museum dial in 1947, with a single dot at twelve. The Museum of Modern Art in New York added it to its collection in 1960. Then, in 1961, Movado began to produce it. Today, the Museum Watch is the most recognized of all Movado designs.
1969 and After
In 1969, Movado joined forces with Zenith. As a result, some later Movado chronographs use the famous Zenith El Primero movement. Later, in 1983, the brand was sold to the North American Watch Corporation. That is why vintage Movado watches feel so different from the brand today.
Why It Still Matters
So what does this mean for you? In short, you can buy a watch made by a top Swiss house for a fair price. The name on the dial is the same as today. But the watch inside is from a very different time. That gap is where the value lies.
Terms Worth Knowing
Our listings for vintage Movado watches use the same shorthand collectors use.
M90 and M95. Movado's in-house chronograph movements. M95 means "Movado Manufacture 95." In fact, they are some of the finest chronograph movements of their era.
Polyplan. A movement built on three planes to fit a curved case. Movado patented it in 1912.
Novoplan. A later curved movement, used in slim rectangular cases from the 1930s.
Ermeto. A purse watch that winds itself when you slide its cover open. It is one of the cleverest vintage Movado watches.
Calendograf. Movado's calendar watch, with day and month windows on the dial.
Tempomatic. Movado's automatic watch of the 1940s, with a "bumper" winding rotor.
Bumper movement. An early automatic movement. Its rotor bounces between two springs instead of turning a full circle.
Sub Sea. Movado's waterproof line. For example, the Super Sub Sea chronographs are some of the most collected vintage Movado watches.
Sector dial. A dial divided into zones by printed rings and lines. It is a hallmark of 1930s and 1940s design.
Snail dial. A chronograph dial with a spiral scale, used for measuring speed or pulse.
Panda and reverse panda. A white dial with black registers, or the opposite. Reverse panda M95s are some of the most wanted vintage Movado watches.
Fab Suisse. Short for "Fabrication Suisse," printed on many early dials.
François Borgel. A Geneva case maker known for waterproof cases. Many Movado sports watches use Borgel cases.
LNOS. Like new, old stock: a watch that was never sold or worn.
Pump pushers. Round chronograph pushers that move straight in and out, like a pump. Many M95s use them.
Hinged lugs. Lugs that pivot on a pin, so the watch follows the wrist. Many early curved Movados have them.
Cropped numerals. Numerals cut short where they meet a chronograph register. It is a small Movado detail that collectors love.
The Chronographs
For many collectors, the chronographs are the reason to look at vintage Movado watches. These are the models we see most often.
M95 Chronograph
The M95 is our most popular Movado. It is a two- or three-register chronograph with Movado's own movement inside. Many come in 35mm Borgel cases with stepped finishing, faceted lugs and pump pushers. In addition, Movado often printed "cropped" numerals around the registers, a small detail that shows real care.
M90 Chronograph
The M90 is the earlier and rarer of the two. For example, we have sold an M90 with a multi-scale snail dial. As a result, it is one of the more valuable vintage Movado watches we handle.
Super Sub Sea
The Super Sub Sea pairs the chronograph with a waterproof case. Some come in cushion cases from the 1960s and 1970s. Meanwhile, later Sub Sea Datron models use the Zenith El Primero movement.
Retailer-Signed Chronographs
Movado sold its chronographs through great retailers. In fact, we have handled M95s signed by Tiffany & Co. and retailed by Cartier. These double-signed pieces are some of the most interesting vintage Movado watches around.
Gold Chronographs
Movado also made M95 chronographs in 14k and 18k gold. Today, gold examples in honest condition are harder and harder to find.
What Makes a Great M95
A great M95 has a clean dial, sharp lugs and the right pushers. The hands and lume should match. The case should still show its steps. And the movement should start, stop and reset with a firm, clean click. When all of that lines up, you have one of the best vintage Movado watches you can own.
Vintage Movado Watches Beyond the Chronograph
The chronographs get the attention. Still, some of the best vintage Movado watches are time-only and calendar pieces, and they often cost far less.
Polyplan and Novoplan
First, there are the curved watches. The Polyplan holds a movement on three planes, while the Novoplan uses two. Both fit long, curved cases that hug the wrist. For example, we have sold a 1910s silver Polyplan with its original fitted box.
Calendograf and Calendar Watches
Next, the Calendograf adds day and month windows to a clean, symmetrical dial. Movado also made triple-date and ladies' calendar watches. In short, they are some of the best-value vintage Movado watches with complications you can buy.
Tempomatic
The Tempomatic was Movado's automatic watch of the 1940s. It uses a bumper rotor and often a Borgel waterproof case. As a result, it looks like a classic Calatrava but wears like a sports watch.
"Calatrava" Dress Watches
Movado made round dress watches in the Calatrava style, often with sector or tropical dials. For example, we have sold the ref. 18610 with silver sector and orange "tangerine" dials. They are some of the most affordable vintage Movado watches on our site.
Square, Octagonal and Cocktail Watches
Movado also played with shape. Square dress watches with Breguet numerals and octagonal ladies' cocktail chronometers are good examples. Similarly, they show how inventive the brand was in the 1940s and 1950s.
Ladies' Movado Watches
Movado made some of its best small watches for women. For example, we have sold ladies' calendar watches and an octagonal cocktail watch that was never worn. They are small, bright and well made. As a result, they make a great gift and a great first vintage watch.
Movado for Cartier
Finally, Movado made ultra-slim dress watches sold by Cartier. For more, see our vintage Cartier watches.
What to Look For Before You Buy
Condition decides the value of vintage Movado watches more than anything else. Above all, many of these watches are small and easy to damage.
The Case
Look for sharp lugs, crisp steps and clean edges. A heavy polish softens them. So we always say when a case is unpolished, and many of our vintage Movado watches are.
The Dial
The dial is often half the value. Therefore, check that the printing is crisp and the lume matches the hands. A tropical or patinated dial can add value. However, a refinished dial almost always lowers it.
Pushers and Crown
On a chronograph, check that the pushers and crown are correct for the model. For example, many M95s use pump pushers and a domed crown. Replacements are common, so we always note them.
The Movement
The M90, M95 and calendar movements are complex. So ask whether the watch has been serviced, and by whom. Every one of our vintage Movado watches is sold running.
Box and Papers
Original boxes are rare on vintage Movado watches. As a result, a fitted period box, like the one we sold with a Polyplan, adds real value.
Tropical and Patina Dials
Some black dials fade to brown over time. Others turn a warm cream or orange. For example, we have sold Movados with "tangerine" tropical dials and a gloss black Calendograf dial turning brown. These changes are natural, and on vintage Movado watches they often add value. Still, the fade should be even, and the print should stay crisp.
Service History
A recent service is a plus. So ask for any records, and ask what was done. Did the watchmaker clean the movement? Were any parts replaced? On vintage Movado watches, the best service keeps the watch as original as it can be.
How to Choose
There is no wrong way into vintage Movado watches. Still, a few questions narrow it down quickly.
Start With Size
Most vintage Movado watches measure 30 to 35mm. For example, an M95 is about 35mm, while a Tempomatic is about 33mm. Even so, slim bezels make them wear larger than you might expect.
Chronograph or Dress Watch
An M95 is a collector's chronograph with real presence. By contrast, a Tempomatic or Calatrava-style piece is quieter and simpler to wear every day. Meanwhile, a curved Polyplan is a talking point.
Steel or Gold
Steel is the most versatile choice. On the other hand, gold chronographs and dress watches feel richer, and they are still good value.
Strap
Most vintage Movado watches wear on leather. So a good strap matters. Our leather watch straps are cut to suit vintage cases and lug widths.
Ask Us
Finally, ask for extra photos, a video or our honest opinion on any of our vintage Movado watches. We are also glad to compare pieces in our inventory and the Archive.
A Good First Vintage Watch
If you are new to vintage, vintage Movado watches are a smart place to start. The prices are fair, the quality is high and the designs are easy to love. In fact, many of our clients bought a Movado first. Then they moved on to Rolex, Patek or Cartier, and still kept the Movado.
How to Wear One
Wear one of our dress vintage Movado watches with a suit or a crisp shirt. Wear an M95 with jeans and a jacket. Or wear a Tempomatic every day. These watches are small and light, so they slip under a cuff with ease. That is part of their charm.
Build a Small Collection
Because prices are fair, you can build a small set of vintage Movado watches for the cost of one watch from a bigger name. For example, pair an M95 with a Calendograf and a curved Novoplan. Together, they tell the whole story of the brand.
What Vintage Movado Watches Cost
Vintage Movado watches are some of the best value in collecting. In general, the model and the condition matter more than anything else.
The Price Bands
Under $3,000: Calatrava-style dress watches, ladies' calendar and cocktail watches, the Novoplan, the Tempomatic and sport models with tropical dials.
$3,000 to $7,500: the Calendograf, square dress watches, Movado-made Cartier dress watches, Super Sub Sea chronographs and many retailer-signed M95s.
$7,500 to $15,000: most M95 chronographs, including reverse pandas and snail dials, plus the M90, the Polyplan, the Sub Sea Datron and gold M95s.
$15,000 and above: exceptional, unpolished M95s and rare gold chronographs.
Steel or Gold Prices
Gold adds to the price, but not as much as you might think. In fact, a gold M95 can cost only a little more than a fine steel one. So if you love gold, vintage Movado watches are one of the best ways to get it for a fair price.
What Moves a Price
Five things decide what vintage Movado watches are worth. First, the model and the movement. Next, the dial. Then, the condition of the case. After that, whether the parts are original. Finally, whether a box or papers survive.
Why Movado Is Still Undervalued
Movado made watches to the same standard as far more expensive brands. In fact, some of its cases came from the same maker. However, the modern brand has kept prices low for vintage pieces. As a result, vintage Movado watches remain one of the smartest buys in the market.
Where Prices Are Going
We think prices for vintage Movado watches will keep rising. More collectors now know the story, and good M95s are getting hard to find. Still, most models cost less than a new mid-range Swiss watch. So now is a good time to buy.
Buying From Oliver & Clarke
We built Oliver & Clarke around the experience we wanted when buying vintage watches ourselves.
Authenticated for Life
All of our vintage Movado watches are inspected by our specialists. In addition, authenticity is guaranteed for life.
One-Year Warranty
All of our vintage Movado watches also come with a one-year mechanical warranty from delivery.
72-Hour Inspection Period
You have 72 hours after delivery to inspect your watch in person. See our shipping, returns and warranty page for full terms.
Visit the Showroom
Of course, you can also see any of our vintage Movado watches in person at our Los Angeles showroom, 6363 Wilshire Boulevard, by appointment.
Sell or Trade
We buy and trade vintage Movado watches, from M95s to Polyplans. Send us yours through Sell Your Watch.
Other Brands
Many Movado collectors also love other great chronographs. So see our vintage Universal Genève watches for the Compax and Polerouter. Similarly, see our vintage Patek Philippe watches for more Borgel-cased classics.
Our View, After Dozens of Movados
Life is too short to wear a boring watch. And few brands offer more design for the money than Movado.
First, condition beats rarity. The best vintage Movado watches are the honest, unpolished ones.
Second, look past the chronographs. Some of the most beautiful vintage Movado watches we have sold were simple dress pieces.
Third, buy it before everyone else does. Collectors are starting to notice, and prices are rising.
Fourth, wear it. These watches were made to be worn, and they look best with a life behind them.
Fifth, trust your eye. Movado got design right more often than almost anyone. If a dial makes you smile, that is a good sign.
Finally, the best vintage Movado watches go fast. If you see one you love here, it may be in the Archive next week.
Vintage Movado Watches Questions
Are vintage Movado watches good quality?
Yes. From the 1910s through the 1960s, Movado was one of the most creative watch makers in Switzerland. It built its own chronograph and calendar movements and used top case makers like François Borgel. As a result, the best vintage Movado watches match far more famous brands on quality.
Many people only know Movado for the modern Museum Watch, so this surprises them. However, the vintage company was a true maker of its own movements. In fact, it designed and built its own movements, including the M90 and M95 chronographs, the Calendograf calendar calibres and the curved Polyplan. Movado also shared case makers with some of the greatest names in Geneva. For example, many of its waterproof models use Borgel cases with stepped finishing and faceted lugs. In addition, Movado sold its watches through retailers like Tiffany & Co. and Cartier. That is why collectors and dealers alike now treat vintage Movado watches as serious pieces. Still, quality varies by model and condition. So look for an original dial, a sharp case and a movement that runs well. Finally, ask us about any watch, and we will give you an honest opinion.
What is the Movado M95?
The M95 is Movado's in-house chronograph movement, introduced in the 1940s, and the watches named after it. M95 means "Movado Manufacture 95." Today, M95 chronographs are the most collected of all vintage Movado watches.
The M95 was made in two- and three-register versions, with many dial and case styles. For example, we have sold M95s with brushed silver dials, snail dials, panda and reverse panda dials, and Tiffany & Co. signatures. Many came in 35mm steel Borgel cases with pump pushers and screw-down casebacks. Others came in 14k or 18k gold. In addition, Movado often printed cropped numerals around the registers. It is a small detail that shows how much care went into these watches. Meanwhile, the earlier M90 is rarer and usually costs more. Both movements are manual-wind and need a watchmaker who knows them. Today, M95s don't come to market as often as you might think. So when an honest, original example appears, it tends to sell quickly. Ask us to compare M95s from our inventory and the Archive.
What is a Movado Polyplan?
The Polyplan is a curved wristwatch Movado patented in 1912. Its movement sits on three planes, a flat center with an angled section at each end. As a result, it can follow the curve of the wrist while holding a full-size movement.
The Polyplan solved a real problem. In the 1910s, curved cases were fashionable, but flat movements did not fit them well. So Movado bent the movement instead. In other words, the Polyplan let the watch hug the wrist without giving up size or accuracy. Most Polyplans are long and slim, often around 20 by 44mm, in silver or gold. Many have hinged lugs and a crown at twelve. In addition, dials often feature striking Art Deco numerals. Later, Movado made the Novoplan, a curved movement on two planes, for slimmer rectangular cases. Today, the Polyplan is one of the most important vintage Movado watches ever made. Original ones with period boxes are very rare. When we list a Polyplan, we describe the case, the dial and the movement in full detail.
How do you authenticate vintage Movado watches?
Our specialists check every case, dial and movement against what is correct for the model and year. Then they inspect the hands, crown, pushers and caseback. Authenticity is guaranteed for life on all of our vintage Movado watches.
Fakes are less common with Movado than with Rolex or Cartier. However, assembled watches and replacement parts are common. So we focus on originality. First, we confirm the movement matches the model, whether it is an M95, a Calendograf calibre or a Tempomatic bumper. Next, we check the dial printing, the lume and the hands. Then we look at the case maker's marks, including Borgel cases, and the pushers and crown on chronographs. After all, a genuine watch can still carry a refinished dial or later hands. In addition, anything that has been replaced is described in the listing in plain language. Our specialists include people who came from Sotheby's and Analog:Shift. Finally, if you ever have a question about a Movado you bought from us, contact our team and we will look at it again.
What is the Movado Museum Watch?
The Museum Watch is a design by Nathan George Horwitt from 1947, with a plain black dial and a single dot at twelve. The Museum of Modern Art added it to its collection in 1960. Then, in 1961, Movado began producing it.
Horwitt wanted a dial that showed time by the position of the hands alone. So he removed the numerals and kept only a dot, inspired by the sun at noon. As a result, the Museum dial became one of the most famous designs of the 20th century. Today, it is the face of the modern Movado brand. However, most vintage collectors focus on earlier pieces. In fact, the chronographs, calendars and curved watches of the 1910s through the 1960s are what drive interest in vintage Movado watches today. Still, early Museum Watches have their own following, especially in good condition. If you are interested in one, ask us. We will tell you what to look for, and we will keep an eye out for a good example.
What size are vintage Movado watches?
Most vintage Movado watches measure 30 to 35mm across. For example, an M95 chronograph is about 35mm, a Tempomatic about 33mm and a Calendograf about 32mm. Meanwhile, curved Polyplans and Novoplans are long and slim, often 18 to 20mm wide.
These sizes are small by today's standards. However, slim bezels and long lugs make them wear larger than you might expect. In fact, many collectors find that a 35mm M95 looks perfectly balanced on the wrist. If you prefer more presence, look at the larger Super Sub Sea chronographs or cushion-case models from the 1960s and 1970s. By contrast, the ladies' calendar and cocktail watches suit smaller wrists. Also remember that the strap changes how a watch wears. A slim, tapered strap makes a small watch feel more refined. Our leather watch straps are cut to suit vintage cases and lug widths. Finally, visit our Los Angeles showroom to try sizes in person. Or ask for wrist shots and measurements of any of our vintage Movado watches.
How much do vintage Movado watches cost?
Our vintage Movado watches start under $3,000 for dress watches, ladies' pieces, the Novoplan and the Tempomatic. Calendografs and Super Sub Seas sit between $3,000 and $7,500. Most M95 chronographs, the M90 and the Polyplan run from $7,500 to $15,000 and up.
Five things decide what vintage Movado watches are worth: the model, the movement, the dial, the case condition and whether the parts are original. Above all, a reverse panda dial, a snail dial or a retailer signature can add a large premium to an M95. Similarly, an unpolished case is worth far more than a polished one. Market demand changes too. For example, M95 prices have risen in recent years as more collectors discover them. Even so, vintage Movado watches remain some of the best value in collecting. In fact, they often cost a fraction of similar watches from better-known brands. We price every watch against recent sales of comparable examples. Fair, transparent pricing is our founding mission. If you share your budget, our team can point you to the Movado that makes the most of it.
Do your vintage Movado watches come with a warranty?
Yes. Every watch comes with a one-year mechanical warranty from the date of delivery, and authenticity is guaranteed for life. However, water resistance is not guaranteed on vintage watches, so keep vintage Movado watches away from water, even a Sub Sea.
The warranty covers the movement and is not transferable. In addition, many of our vintage Movado watches have been serviced by our watchmakers before sale, and every one is sold running. If something goes wrong within the warranty period, contact our team and we will arrange a repair. Gaskets and seals age over time. That is why we do not guarantee water resistance on any vintage watch, whatever it was rated for when new. Chronograph and calendar movements are complex, so avoid knocks and keep the watch away from strong magnets. Also, have it serviced every five to seven years by someone who knows the movement. You also have 72 hours after delivery to inspect your watch in person. Finally, full terms are listed on our shipping, returns and warranty page, and our team is glad to explain them before you buy.
How should I care for a vintage Movado?
Wind manual watches once a day, keep the watch dry and never let a jeweler polish the case. In addition, avoid starting or resetting a chronograph roughly, and never change a calendar between about 9pm and 3am, when the date mechanism is working.
Vintage Movado watches are mechanical machines that may be 70 years old or more. So a little care goes a long way. First, wind the watch gently at roughly the same time each day. Next, use the chronograph pushers firmly but smoothly, and stop the chronograph before you reset it. Then, on a Calendograf or other calendar watch, avoid adjusting the date late at night, because the wheels are already moving. Meanwhile, store the watch somewhere dry and away from magnets. In addition, keep it off the bathroom counter. Finally, plan a full service every five to seven years. During service, always ask for the case to be cleaned only, because polishing softens the steps and lugs. Our team is glad to advise on care for any Movado you buy from us.
Do you buy or trade vintage Movado watches?
Yes. We buy and trade vintage Movado watches, especially M90 and M95 chronographs, Polyplans, Calendografs and retailer-signed pieces. Send photos and details through our Sell Your Watch page. Our team will review your watch and come back to you with an offer.
First, clear photos of the dial, case, caseback, crown, pushers and any papers help us give you an accurate offer quickly. Next, tell us what you know about the watch's history. That includes service records and original purchase details. Original boxes add value on vintage Movado watches, so include them if you have them. We buy outright or take watches in trade toward a piece in our inventory. For example, a trade can be a smart way to move from a dress watch to an M95, or from Movado to another brand. Our offers are based on condition, originality and recent market sales, the same way we price our own watches. If you are selling a collection, we are glad to review the whole group. Finally, every watch we buy is inspected the same way as the watches we sell.
Why are vintage Movado watches so different from modern Movado?
In 1983, the Movado brand was sold to the North American Watch Corporation, which later took the Movado name. Since then, the brand has focused on modern, design-led watches. By contrast, vintage Movado watches come from the original Swiss maker in La Chaux-de-Fonds.
The original company was founded in 1881 by Achille Ditesheim and his brothers. It adopted the Movado name in 1905. Over the next six years, it built its own movements, patented the Polyplan and made some of the finest chronographs of the era. Then, in 1969, Movado joined forces with Zenith. As a result, some later chronographs use the Zenith El Primero movement. After the 1983 sale, the focus shifted to the Museum Watch and modern designs. That gap is exactly why vintage Movado watches are such good value. In other words, the market still prices them by the modern brand, not by the quality of the original maker. Collectors who know the difference are snapping them up. Ask us, and we will walk you through the best models to start with.
Find Your Next Movado at Oliver & Clarke
New vintage Movado watches join our inventory regularly, and the best ones rarely last. Every piece is authenticated for life, covered by a one-year mechanical warranty and described down to the last mark. Want to know who you are buying from? Read our story.
Looking for a specific M95 or Polyplan, or want to see a watch in person? Book an appointment at our Los Angeles showroom, or tell us what you are hunting for and we will look for it. Selling or trading? Start with Sell Your Watch. For anything else, visit Customer Care or email info@oliverandclarke.com.