Vintage Audemars Piguet Watches
The History of Audemars Piguet
From the original Royal Oak to rare gold dress watches, every one of our vintage Audemars Piguet watches is hand-selected for condition and authenticated for life.
Vintage Audemars Piguet Watches, Chosen One at a Time
Audemars Piguet has never made many watches, and it made far fewer before 1972 than after. That scarcity is part of what makes vintage Audemars Piguet watches so rewarding to collect. In addition, every one of them comes from a small family company in the Swiss Jura. Most were also finished by hand, in quantities a larger brand would make in a week.
At Oliver & Clarke, we buy vintage Audemars Piguet watches that grade 9 or 10 out of 10 for condition. In other words, we look for honest cases, original dials and movements that run the way they should. We have sold more than 60 Audemars Piguet watches since 2018, most of them Royal Oaks. Before each one went up, we also checked it against what is correct for its reference and year.
This page holds our current Audemars Piguet inventory. Right now that means gold dress watches with stone and woven dials and a white gold Cobra. In other words, these are the quiet, ultra-thin pieces the brand made before and alongside the Royal Oak. When a watch sells, it moves to the O&C Archive, where you can see the Royal Oak 5402s, 4100s, 14790s and complications we have handled. To browse every brand we carry, visit our full collection of vintage watches.
Below is our guide to vintage Audemars Piguet watches. First, it covers where the brand came from, the terms in our listings and the references worth knowing. It also explains what to check before you buy and what these watches cost today.
From Le Brassus to the Royal Oak
The story of vintage Audemars Piguet watches starts in a remote valley and runs through one of the most important designs of the 20th century.
1875: Two Watchmakers in the Vallée de Joux
Jules Louis Audemars and Edward Auguste Piguet set up shop in Le Brassus, in the Vallée de Joux, in 1875. By then, the valley had supplied complicated movements to the great Geneva houses for generations. Audemars handled the movements and Piguet ran the business, and the company is still controlled by their families today.
Complications and Thinness
For its first century, AP built its name on complications and thin movements rather than volume. For example, in 1892 it made one of the earliest minute repeater movements for a wristwatch. In the decades that followed, it produced jump hours, perpetual calendars and some of the thinnest movements of their time. As a result, many early vintage Audemars Piguet watches are small, precious and deliberately understated.
The Dress Watch Era
Through the 1950s and 1960s, AP made gold dress watches in round, square, stepped and asymmetrical cases. In addition, many were sold through great retailers, who signed the dials alongside the brand. These pre-Royal Oak vintage Audemars Piguet watches are some of the most refined dress pieces of the period. They are still some of the best value.
1972: The Royal Oak
Gérald Genta sketched the Royal Oak, legend has it, in a single night before the 1972 Basel fair. According to the story, it was inspired by a diver's helmet and named for a line of British warships. Specifically, the design put an octagonal bezel with eight exposed screws on a steel case with an integrated bracelet. Then AP finished every surface by hand, like a gold watch. It cost more than many gold dress watches of the day, and it changed what a luxury watch could be. Today it is the reference point for all vintage Audemars Piguet watches.
After the Royal Oak
AP spent the next two decades building the Royal Oak into a family. First came a ladies' version in 1976 and midsize and quartz models. Then came perpetual calendars, moonphases and chronographs. Later, the Royal Oak Offshore followed in 1993. The dress watches never stopped, though. In fact, the Cobra, Ellipse and stone-dial pieces of the 1970s are now among the most interesting vintage Audemars Piguet watches you can buy.
Terms Worth Knowing
Our listings for vintage Audemars Piguet watches use the same shorthand collectors use.
Jumbo. The nickname for the original 39mm Royal Oak, ref. 5402, and its successors. In 1972, 39mm was enormous.
A, B, C and D series. Production runs of the 5402, marked by a letter before the caseback number. The A-series is the first and most collected of all vintage Audemars Piguet watches.
Logo at 6. Early Royal Oak dials carry the AP logo at six o'clock. Later dials moved it to twelve.
Tapisserie. The fine grid pattern on Royal Oak dials, from "petite tapisserie" on early examples to the larger patterns of later models.
Midsize. Royal Oaks between the Jumbo and the ladies' models, roughly 33 to 36mm, such as the 4100 and 14790.
ST, BA, BC, SA. AP's material codes: steel, yellow gold, white gold, and steel with yellow gold.
Integrated bracelet. A bracelet designed as part of the case, with no visible lugs. In fact, it is the signature of the Royal Oak and the Cobra.
Extract from the Archives. A document from AP confirming a watch's reference, serial number and original date of sale.
Double-signed dial. A dial printed with both AP and the retailer that sold it, such as Gübelin.
Fliplock clasp. The early AP-signed folding clasp found on first-series 5402s. As a result, an original one is a strong sign of an untouched bracelet.
Calibre 2121. The ultra-thin automatic movement with date inside the 5402, the Cobra and many later vintage Audemars Piguet watches.
Tropical. A dial whose color has shifted with age, such as a blue Royal Oak dial turned grey or brown. For that reason, no two tropical vintage Audemars Piguet watches are alike.
The Royal Oak, Reference by Reference
The Royal Oak is the reason most people start looking at vintage Audemars Piguet watches. Below are the references we see most often.
Ref. 5402: The Original Jumbo
First, the 39mm 5402 ran through the 1970s and 1980s in steel, two-tone and yellow gold. Inside, it uses the ultra-thin automatic calibre 2121. That movement was first developed with Jaeger-LeCoultre in the 1960s, and Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin used it too. Above all, a steel A-series with a logo at 6 dial is one of the most important vintage Audemars Piguet watches there is.
Ref. 14802: The Jubilee
Made for the Royal Oak's 20th anniversary in 1992, the Jubilee kept the 39mm Jumbo case alive between the 5402 and the 15002. As a result, it is one of the rarer vintage Audemars Piguet watches we see.
Ref. 4100: The First Midsize
The 35mm 4100 brought the Royal Oak to a smaller wrist in the late 1970s and 1980s. We have sold it in steel, two-tone, yellow gold and white gold, including diamond and tropical dials. Even so, it remains one of the best-value vintage Audemars Piguet watches with a mechanical movement.
Refs. 14790, 14700 and 14486
The 36mm 14790 is one of our favorite vintage Audemars Piguet watches for daily wear. It is slim, balanced and comfortable on almost any wrist. In particular, look for early dials and the rare black "Military" dial with Arabic numerals.
Quartz Royal Oaks
AP made quartz Royal Oaks, such as the 56175, 56303, 56143 and the larger 56023, through the 1980s and 1990s. As a result, they are the most affordable way into vintage Audemars Piguet watches with the Royal Oak design.
Ref. 8638: The Ladies' Royal Oak
Designed by Jacqueline Dimier and introduced in 1976, the ladies' Royal Oak shrank the design without losing its proportions. Indeed, it is one of the most elegant small vintage Audemars Piguet watches.
Ref. 25594 and 25572: The "Owl"
A day, date and moonphase Royal Oak from the 1980s and 1990s, nicknamed for the way its subdials look like an owl's face. Overall, it is one of the most charming vintage Audemars Piguet watches.
Ref. 25860: The "Kasparov"
A Royal Oak chronograph from the late 1990s, nicknamed for chess champion Garry Kasparov, who wore one. Today, unpolished examples with box and papers are some of the most wanted vintage Audemars Piguet watches from the decade.
Ref. 25654: The Perpetual Calendar
AP introduced the Royal Oak perpetual calendar in 1984. The 25654 is one of the great complicated vintage Audemars Piguet watches, with day, date, month, moonphase and leap year on one dial.
Skeleton and Special Editions
We have also sold skeleton Royal Oaks, dual time models and special editions. For example, we have handled a Pictet & Cie presentation piece and an Al Naboodah limited edition of 50.
Ref. 25730: The Dual Time
A Royal Oak with a second time zone and a power reserve indicator, made for travelers in the 1990s. As a result, it is one of the more practical vintage Audemars Piguet watches with a complication.
Vintage Audemars Piguet Watches Beyond the Royal Oak
Some of the best vintage Audemars Piguet watches have nothing to do with the Royal Oak, and they often cost less.
The Cobra, Ref. 5403
Released just after the 5402 and nicknamed for its woven, serpent-like construction, the Cobra wraps a gold bracelet completely around the case. It also uses the same ultra-thin automatic movement as the Royal Oak. At launch it sat above even the gold Royal Oaks in price. Even now, it still looks like nothing else in vintage Audemars Piguet watches.
Stone and Woven Dials
In the 1970s AP made white and yellow gold dress watches with lapis lazuli, sodalite and other stone details. It also made textured gold "woven" dials. Consequently, they are some of the most colorful vintage Audemars Piguet watches and among the hardest to find in good condition.
Ellipse, Octagonal and Asymmetric Cases
AP experimented with shape in the 1960s and 1970s. Examples include elliptical cases such as the 5419 "Jumbo" Ellipse, octagonal dress watches, the two-tone 4274 "Zebra" and hinged-lug designs. Altogether, these are some of the most unusual vintage Audemars Piguet watches ever made.
Pre-Royal Oak Dress Watches
Stepped cases like the 1960s ref. 5063 "Cioccolatone," platinum rectangular watches from the 1950s and slim round pieces with brushed silver dials show what AP did best before 1972. Moreover, many of these vintage Audemars Piguet watches carry retailer signatures and manual-wind movements of superb quality.
Retailer-Signed Dials
Many vintage Audemars Piguet watches were sold through great jewelers who added their own name to the dial. A Gübelin signature, for example, ties a watch to the famous Lucerne retailer. As a result, double-signed dials are rare and add both history and value when they are original.
Star Wheel and Complications
AP revived the wandering-hour Star Wheel in the early 1990s. Like the Royal Oak perpetual calendar, it is one of several complicated vintage Audemars Piguet watches that show the brand's roots in the Vallée de Joux.
Audemars Piguet for Cartier
Some of the most interesting vintage Audemars Piguet watches carry another name. AP also made watches and movements for Cartier, including ultra-slim dress pieces and Tank models. For more from Cartier, see our vintage Cartier watches.
What to Look For Before You Buy
Condition decides the value of vintage Audemars Piguet watches more than anything else. The Royal Oak, in particular, is harder on its owners than most.
Case and Bezel Finishing
The Royal Oak's brushed surfaces and polished bevels are the whole point of the design, and a careless polish destroys them. So look for sharp transitions between brushed and polished surfaces and crisp bezel screws. For that reason, many of our vintage Audemars Piguet watches are listed as unpolished.
The Bracelet
An integrated bracelet is part of the case, so it matters as much as the head. So check for stretch, the original clasp and enough links for your wrist. Early 5402s with an AP-signed fliplock clasp are especially desirable among vintage Audemars Piguet watches.
The Dial
The dial is the face of any watch and often half its value. Look for an even tapisserie pattern, correct printing for the series and lume that matches the hands. A tropical dial can add value. However, a refinished dial almost always lowers it.
Lume and Hands
On Royal Oaks with tritium, the lume on the dial and hands should have aged together to the same shade. For example, bright white hands on a cream dial usually mean a replacement. Matching patina is one of the clearest signs of original vintage Audemars Piguet watches.
Movement and Service
The calibre 2121 is thin and delicate, so it needs a watchmaker who knows it. Therefore, ask whether a watch has been serviced and whether any parts were replaced. In any case, every one of our vintage Audemars Piguet watches is sold running.
Box, Papers and Extracts
Original boxes, papers, booklets and an Extract from the Archives all add value and confidence. They matter most on Royal Oaks, where full sets of vintage Audemars Piguet watches are increasingly rare.
How to Choose
There is no wrong way into vintage Audemars Piguet watches, but a few questions narrow it down fast.
Start With Size
A 39mm Jumbo wears larger than its size because the bracelet runs straight from the case. If your wrist is under about 7 inches, try a 36mm 14790 or 35mm 4100 first. Similarly, the 33mm quartz models and 30mm ladies' pieces suit smaller wrists.
Royal Oak or Dress Watch
Most vintage Audemars Piguet watches fall into two camps. A Royal Oak goes with almost anything and wears like a sports watch. By contrast, a gold AP dress watch or a Cobra is quieter, slimmer and often a better value. In the end, many collectors want both.
Steel or Gold
Steel is the classic Royal Oak and the easiest of all vintage Audemars Piguet watches to wear every day. Gold and two-tone models feel richer, and solid gold dress watches give you a lot of watch for the money.
Ask Us
Ask for extra photos, a video, a size comparison or our honest opinion on any of our vintage Audemars Piguet watches. We are also glad to compare pieces in our inventory and the Archive.
Living With a Vintage AP
Wear it, but treat it gently. Keep vintage Audemars Piguet watches away from water and magnets. Avoid knocks to the thin calibre 2121. And never let a jeweler polish the case. Finally, store the watch somewhere dry and plan a service every five to seven years.
What Vintage Audemars Piguet Watches Cost
Prices for vintage Audemars Piguet watches cover a wide range, and the reference matters more than the brand name.
The Price Bands
Under $15,000: gold dress watches with silver or brushed dials, octagonal pieces, early quartz Royal Oaks such as the 56175 and 56303, and the "Cioccolatone."
$15,000 to $30,000: stone-dial and woven-dial dress watches, the ladies' Royal Oak, most 14790s, the "Owl" and the larger quartz Royal Oaks.
$30,000 to $60,000: most 4100s, gold midsize Royal Oaks, the "Kasparov," the Cobra, the "Zebra" and most steel and two-tone 5402s.
$60,000 and above: A-series and gold 5402s, perpetual calendars, skeletons and rare special editions.
What Moves a Price
Five things decide what vintage Audemars Piguet watches are worth. First, they are the reference, the dial and the condition of the case and bracelet. The other two are the originality of the parts and whether the box and papers survive. Among vintage Audemars Piguet watches, a full-set unpolished Royal Oak stands apart. In fact, it can be worth far more than the same reference with a polished case and no papers.
Dress Watches Are Still Undervalued
The Royal Oak gets the attention. However, gold AP dress watches from the 1950s through the 1970s were made to the same standard. They often cost a fraction as much. For collectors who want quality over hype, they are the smartest vintage Audemars Piguet watches to buy right now.
Buying From Oliver & Clarke
We built Oliver & Clarke around the experience we wanted when buying vintage watches ourselves.
Authenticated for Life
All of our vintage Audemars Piguet watches are inspected by our specialists, and authenticity is guaranteed for life.
One-Year Warranty
In addition, all of our vintage Audemars Piguet watches come with a one-year mechanical warranty from delivery.
72-Hour Inspection Period
You have 72 hours after delivery to inspect your watch in person. See our shipping, returns and warranty page for full terms.
Visit the Showroom
Of course, you can also see any of our vintage Audemars Piguet watches in person at our Los Angeles showroom, 6363 Wilshire Boulevard, by appointment.
Sell or Trade
We buy and trade vintage Audemars Piguet watches, from Royal Oaks to dress watches. Send us yours through Sell Your Watch.
Other Brands
Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin are often called the "holy trinity" of Swiss watchmaking. See our vintage Patek Philippe watches, or our vintage Rolex watches for the steel sports watches that came before the Royal Oak.
Our View, After Dozens of Royal Oaks
Life is too short to wear a boring watch, and few brands are less boring than Audemars Piguet.
First, finishing is everything. The best vintage Audemars Piguet watches are the ones whose original brushing and bevels survived.
Second, look past the Royal Oak. Some of the most beautiful vintage Audemars Piguet watches we have sold were gold dress pieces most buyers walked past.
Third, size down if you are unsure about vintage Audemars Piguet watches. After all, a 36mm Royal Oak wears beautifully, and it costs less than a Jumbo.
Finally, the best vintage Audemars Piguet watches go fast. If you see one you love here, it may be in the Archive next week.
Vintage Audemars Piguet Watches Questions
Which vintage Audemars Piguet watches are most collectible?
The steel Royal Oak ref. 5402, especially an early A-series with a logo at 6 dial, is the most collected of all vintage Audemars Piguet watches. The Royal Oak perpetual calendar, the "Kasparov" chronograph, the white gold Cobra and stone-dial dress watches follow close behind.
In short, collectibility comes down to design history, rarity and condition. The 5402 is the original Royal Oak, so early examples with correct dials, unpolished cases and AP-signed clasps carry the strongest demand. Meanwhile, midsize Royal Oaks like the 4100 and 14790 have grown quickly as collectors discovered how well they wear. Beyond the Royal Oak, prices are rising for the Cobra. The same is true of 1970s gold dress watches with lapis, sodalite or woven dials. Similarly, pre-1972 dress pieces with retailer signatures, such as the Gübelin "Cioccolatone," appeal to collectors who value craft over hype. Whatever the reference, condition matters most. An honest, original example of a common reference usually holds its value better than a tired example of a rare one. Finally, our Archive shows the vintage Audemars Piguet watches we have sold, which is a good guide to what collectors want.
What is a Royal Oak "Jumbo"?
"Jumbo" is the collector name for the original 39mm Royal Oak, ref. 5402, launched in 1972. At the time, 39mm was huge for a luxury watch. The name now also covers its 39mm successors, such as the 14802 Jubilee, the 15002 and the 15202.
Gérald Genta designed the Royal Oak around an octagonal bezel with eight exposed screws. He paired it with a tapisserie dial and a bracelet that flows straight from the case. The 5402 used the ultra-thin automatic calibre 2121, which kept the watch remarkably slim for its diameter. It was also made in steel, two-tone and yellow gold, in production runs known as the A, B, C and D series. Early A-series and early B-series dials carry the AP logo at six o'clock, which collectors prize. The bracelet runs straight from the case with no lugs. As a result, a Jumbo wears larger than 39mm suggests and suits medium to larger wrists best. Want the design in a smaller size? The 36mm 14790 and the 35mm 4100 midsize models keep the look in a more compact case. Either way, ask us for a size comparison before you buy.
How do you authenticate vintage Audemars Piguet watches?
Our specialists check every case, serial and reference number against what is correct for the reference and year. Then they inspect the dial, hands, bezel, bracelet, clasp and movement. Authenticity is guaranteed for life on all of our vintage Audemars Piguet watches.
The Royal Oak is one of the most copied watches in the world, so authentication needs real experience. We look at the case finishing and bezel screws, plus the tapisserie pattern and printing on the dial. Then we check the bracelet links, the clasp signatures and the calibre inside. We also check that the parts belong together. After all, a genuine watch can still carry a service dial, replacement hands or a later bracelet. In addition, anything that has been replaced is described in the listing in plain language. Our team has handled more than 60 Audemars Piguet watches and thousands of vintage watches overall. Our specialists include people who came from Sotheby's and Analog:Shift. Furthermore, where possible, an Extract from the Archives from Audemars Piguet adds another layer of confidence. If you ever have a question about an AP you bought from us, contact our team and we will look at it again.
What does "A-series" mean on a Royal Oak?
The A-series is the first production run of the Royal Oak ref. 5402, identified by the letter A before the number on the caseback. It is the earliest and most collected series, followed by the B, C and D series made through the 1970s and 1980s.
In practice, collectors use the series letters to date a 5402 and to understand which details are correct for it. Early examples have the AP logo at six o'clock on the dial, while later dials moved the logo to twelve. Dial printing, the tapisserie pattern, the hands and the clasp also changed between series. So each detail should match the letter on the caseback. A-series watches carry the strongest prices, especially in steel with an original dial and an AP-signed fliplock clasp. Likewise, B-series examples with a logo at 6 dial are highly sought after. Later C and D series watches offer the same design and movement at a lower price. That makes them an excellent way into the original Jumbo. When we list a 5402, we state the series and any details that date it. That way you know exactly which version you are looking at.
Are vintage Audemars Piguet dress watches worth buying?
Yes. Gold Audemars Piguet dress watches from the 1950s through the 1970s were made to the same standard as the Royal Oak. Yet they often cost far less. For many collectors they are the best value among vintage Audemars Piguet watches today.
Before 1972, AP was known for thin, beautifully finished dress watches in gold and platinum. Many were sold through retailers such as Gübelin, who signed the dials. After the Royal Oak, the brand kept making dress pieces. These included the woven-bracelet Cobra and white gold watches with lapis lazuli and sodalite details. Because the Royal Oak dominates attention, these watches have been underpriced for years, though collectors have started to notice. In addition, many carry manual-wind movements of superb quality, and they wear slim and elegant under a cuff. Even so, condition still matters: look for sharp case edges, an original dial and correct hands. Our current inventory includes several gold dress watches, from a Coin watch to stone-dial pieces and a Cobra. If you want an AP with real character for less than the cost of a Royal Oak, this is the place to start.
What size Royal Oak should I buy?
For most wrists under about 7 inches, a 36mm 14790 or 35mm 4100 is the most comfortable Royal Oak. Larger wrists suit the 39mm Jumbo. The 33mm quartz models and the 30mm ladies' Royal Oak fit smaller wrists well.
The Royal Oak's integrated bracelet runs straight from the case with no lugs. As a result, it wears larger and flatter than its diameter suggests. That is why many collectors who try a Jumbo end up preferring a midsize. Measure your wrist, or compare the case to a watch you already wear. Also remember that the bracelet's width changes how it feels. Bracelet length matters too. Extra links for older Royal Oaks can be hard to find, so we always note the fit in our listings. Also note that gold Royal Oaks feel noticeably heavier than steel. If you are buying for daily wear, a steel midsize is hard to beat. Visit our Los Angeles showroom to try sizes in person, or ask for wrist shots and measurements of any of our vintage Audemars Piguet watches. We are glad to help you find the right fit.
How much do vintage Audemars Piguet watches cost?
Our vintage Audemars Piguet watches start under $15,000 for gold dress watches and early quartz Royal Oaks. Midsize Royal Oaks and stone-dial pieces sit between $15,000 and $60,000. A-series and gold 5402s, perpetual calendars and skeletons run higher, past $100,000.
Five things decide what vintage Audemars Piguet watches are worth. They are the reference, the dial, the condition of the case and bracelet, the originality of the parts and the box and papers. On a Royal Oak, an unpolished case with original finishing can add a large premium. So can a full set with box, papers and an Extract from the Archives. By contrast, dress watches vary more by case metal, dial and rarity, and they remain some of the best value in vintage watchmaking. Market demand moves too. Royal Oak prices have risen sharply over the past decade. Meanwhile, many AP dress watches still sell for less than comparable Patek Philippe pieces. We price every watch against recent sales of comparable examples, and fair, transparent pricing is our founding mission. If you share your budget, our team can point you to the AP that makes the most of it.
Do your vintage Audemars Piguet watches come with a warranty?
Yes. Every watch comes with a one-year mechanical warranty from the date of delivery, and authenticity is guaranteed for life. Water resistance is not guaranteed on vintage watches, so keep them away from water, even a Royal Oak.
However, the warranty covers the movement only and is not transferable. Many of our vintage Audemars Piguet watches have been serviced by our watchmakers before sale, and every one is sold running. If something goes wrong within the warranty period, contact our team and we will arrange a repair. Gaskets and seals age over time. That is why we do not guarantee water resistance on any vintage watch, regardless of what it was rated for when new. The calibre 2121 inside many Royal Oaks is thin and delicate. So avoid strong knocks, keep the watch away from magnets and have it serviced by someone who knows the movement. You also have 72 hours after delivery to inspect your watch in person. Full terms are listed on our shipping, returns and warranty page, and our team is glad to explain them before you buy.
How often should a vintage Royal Oak be serviced?
Plan on a service every five to seven years, or sooner if the watch starts losing time, stops or has been exposed to moisture. Choose a watchmaker experienced with the calibre 2121 and ask them not to polish the case or bracelet.
First, a full service means the movement is taken apart, cleaned, lubricated, regulated and reassembled, with worn parts replaced where needed. The ultra-thin 2121 needs particular care because its parts are small and its rotor runs on a delicate rail. However, the bigger risk on a Royal Oak is the case. A routine polish during service can soften the bevels and blur the line between brushed and polished surfaces. That lowers both the look and the value. Therefore, always ask for the case and bracelet to be cleaned only. When we service vintage Audemars Piguet watches, we keep them as original as possible and tell you about any replaced parts. Between services, wind the watch if it has stopped, store it somewhere dry and keep it away from magnets. Our team is glad to advise on care for any AP you buy from us.
Do you buy or trade vintage Audemars Piguet watches?
Yes. We buy and trade vintage Audemars Piguet watches, especially Royal Oaks, Cobras and gold dress watches. Send photos and details through our Sell Your Watch page. Our team will review your watch and come back to you with an offer.
First, clear photos of the dial, case, bezel, caseback, bracelet, clasp and any papers help us give you an accurate offer quickly. Tell us what you know about the watch's history. That includes service records, original purchase details and any Extract from the Archives. Original boxes, papers and spare links add value on vintage Audemars Piguet watches, so include them if you have them. We buy outright or take watches in trade toward a piece in our inventory. For example, a trade can be a smart way to move from a quartz or midsize Royal Oak to a Jumbo. Our offers are based on condition, originality and recent market sales, the same way we price our own watches. Finally, every watch we buy is inspected the same way as the watches we sell.
What is the Audemars Piguet Cobra?
The Cobra is a white or yellow gold Audemars Piguet dress watch from the 1970s, ref. 5403, nicknamed for its woven, serpent-like bracelet that wraps completely around the case. It uses the same ultra-thin automatic movement as the original Royal Oak.
AP released the Cobra just after the Royal Oak 5402. At the time, Patek Philippe, Piaget, Rolex and AP were all experimenting with bold gold designs focused on finishing. The bracelet encloses the middle of the case, so the watch is effectively all bracelet. It has a crown at three o'clock and a screw-down caseback. Also, at about 34mm it wears larger than its size, like most integrated-bracelet watches. Notably, when new, the Cobra was priced above both the steel and the gold Royal Oaks. Today it costs a fraction of a comparable 5402. That makes it one of the most interesting vintage Audemars Piguet watches for collectors who want rarity and design without Royal Oak prices. Look for a crisp, unstretched bracelet and an original dial. Our current inventory includes a white gold Cobra with a sunburst blue dial and diamond indices.
Find Your Next Audemars Piguet at Oliver & Clarke
New vintage Audemars Piguet watches join our inventory regularly, and the best ones rarely last. Every piece is authenticated for life, covered by a one-year mechanical warranty and described down to the last mark. Wearing a dress piece on leather? Our leather watch straps are cut to suit vintage cases and lug widths. Want to know who you are buying from? Read our story.
Looking for a specific Royal Oak reference, or want to see a watch in person? Book an appointment at our Los Angeles showroom, or tell us what you are hunting for and we will look for it. Selling or trading? Start with Sell Your Watch. For anything else, visit Customer Care or email info@oliverandclarke.com.