Rolex Submariner Ref. 5512 - 'Meters First' Matte Dial

The Rolex Submariner is a true icon — and the word "icon" does get thrown around an awful lot. If you were to ask ten people at random to draw you their idea of a watch looks like, chances are they would draw or describe something that looks like a Rolex Submariner. It’s the dive watch of reference, and good/bad/indifferent there is no escaping it. Throughout its 70-year production, there have been countless small changes made to the model, with the Reference 5512 representing a very interesting period in the Submariner story.

The Ref. 5512 was originally sold alongside the 5513 as an up-market chronometer certified version of the venerable dive watch icon. During its production run, the 5512 series transitioned from the glossy gilt dials of the early 1960s, to matte dials in the later examples — as well as a bevy of different case and crown guard shapes.

The piece that we have here hails from the later years of the 5512 production run where gilt dials had been replaced with the matte dials that have, debatably, become the focal point of vintage Rolex collecting and perhaps more desirable to more people.

This watch is in truly outstanding condition presenting a near-flawless dial and very well preserved case. The bezel presents very well, and the later ‘67 dial even boasts ‘Meters First’ printing which is one of those small details that we as collectors love to see. While not the case with the simpler 2-line 5513 - this dial has same 4-lines of text we have come to expect from the Submariner, proclaiming its superlative chronometer status. This is a special one, and with the 70th Anniversary of the Submariner in 2023, what better way to celebrate.

This example dates to circa 1967 and features a thick, unpolished case housing a fantastic matte black 'meters first' dial and a chronometer certified movement inside.