Rolex Submariner Ref. 5508 - 'Small Crown'

The Rolex Submariner is a true icon — and the word "icon" does get thrown around an awful lot. If you were to ask ten people at random to draw you their idea of what a watch looks like, there is a significant chance that they would draw or describe something that looks like a Rolex Submariner. It’s the dive watch of reference, and good/bad/indifferent there is no escaping it. Throughout its 70-year production, there have been countless small changes made to the model, particularly in the first decade or so. 

The Reference 5508 is one of those short-lived iterations, produced for roughly 4 years in 1958-1962, and like virtually all Rolex Professional references from the early days, is coveted by collectors for its own reasons.

First, the 'Small Crown' as it's know, features a more svelte 37mm Oyster case than that of its 'Big Crown' siblings, and of course, all subsequent Submariners. This allows for a fantastic wearing experience that was lost after this reference went out of production. The Ref. 5508 would also be the last Submariner without crown guards. In fact, this particular example was likely sold next to very early Ref. 5512 and 5513s, which of course do feature a completely different case design.

Dating to circa 1958, this example comes to us in strong, honest overall condition. The case has been very lightly previously polished and shows normal wear from age throughout. The factory proportions have been respected retaining symmetrical lugs at all four corners and those gorgeous chamfers still present and visible. The bezel assembly is nicely preserved, with strong finishing and matching wear. The insert within exhibits an attractive fade and shows light wear with a matching luminous pip. This piece comes fitted with its correct 'rivet' Oyster bracelet with a 'big logo' clasp. A very rare and special bracelet in the world of vintage Rolex. It shows very light signs of previous polishing and normal wear, matching the case nicely. Inside, the glossy black 'gilt' dial is in great condition given its age. The deep black color is largely preserved, with a few areas of 'matting' present and beautifully patinated luminous plots throughout. The handset also matches the dial beautifully.

It is fair to say that strong examples of watches from this era do not surface as often as they used to. This is a great chance to grab one of the most versatile-wearing Submariners of all time.