Rolex Submariner Date Ref. 1680 - 'Red Sub' Unpolished W/ Box & Papers

The Rolex Submariner is a true icon — and the word "icon" does get thrown around an awful lot. If you were to ask ten people at random to draw you their idea of what a watch looks like, there is a significant chance that they would draw or describe something that looks like a Rolex Submariner. It’s the dive watch of reference, and good/bad/indifferent there is no escaping it. Throughout its 70-year production, there have been countless small changes made to the model, particularly in the first decade or so, with the 1680 representing a true landmark in the history of the model.

The Ref. 1680 was the first Submariner to feature a date and enjoyed a long production run spanning close to 15 years. Why would a dive watch need a date? Well, this was the first step in marketing a tool watch beyond the diving community and crowd - because you definitely do not need to know the date underwater! The 1680 started a shift to civilian friendly models, and to this day, the Submariner Date outsells and outnumbers its 'no-date' sibling something like 10-1. Purity aside, this does make sense for most buyers. It utilizes the iconic Rolex cyclops married with the date function, yet remains clean and functional as ever. 

The piece that we have here, however, is no run of the mill Ref. 1680...

This piece features a line of text on the dial that reads: “Submariner” in red, rather than the usual white. It has since become known to collectors as the "Red Sub."

The example that we have here dates to circa 1969 and comes to us in strong overall condition. The case remains unpolished, with thick lugs at all four corners and visible chamfers. It shows honest signs of wear from a previous life, with some scattered impressions and blemishes. Inside, the correct 'MK4' dial is beautifully preserved and in superb condition, with a clean matte surface and deeply patinated Tritium plots. The handset matches the dial nicely, as well as the Tritium pip in the bezel insert. The insert itself is period-correct and has developed an attractive mid-fade, resulting in something of a charcoal color. It comes fitted to a correct Oyster bracelet with a fliplock clasp.

Last but not least, while it would be enough to enjoy this piece on its own, this piece is accompanied by its inner box, green vinyl folder, COSC hangtag, punched guarantee booklet dated 4/5/1971, purchase invoice dated 4/5/1971, and punched papers.

'Red Subs' were amongst the first collectible Rolexes. Their popularity over the last three decades or so needs no explanation and shows no signs of softening, and fantastic examples like the one we have here do not surface all that often.