Movado M90 Chronograph Ref. 9005 - Silver Multi-Scale 'Snail' Dial

While it may be hard to imagine based upon their product line today, Movado Laboratories (yes, that was the full name) once made watches that were beautifully designed, well made, and respected — up there with some other great manufacturers. 

The piece that we have here, an M90 Chronograph, is simply named after the Movado Manufacture M90 movement powering it. Over the years, these were produced with a variety of dial and case configurations, with this example having been produced on the earlier side dating to circa 1943.

It features a 35mm case with gorgeous 'stepped' finishing on the top side and a and 'snapback' caseback. In very-likely unpolished condition, it shows honest signs of wear from age and use throughout, with symmetrical lugs at each corner and defined 'stepped' finishing and even retains its correct pushers and signed, 'domed' crown. Inside, however, is where things get really good... The silver two-register dial features two scales, each of which are rendered in blue: one on the outer edge, and another 'snail' scale within the center section. The indices are not only applied, but are yellow gold and in the 'Breguet' style. A style coveted and praised by connoisseurs of vintage. A very thoughtful and almost funny detail found on Movado chronographs with 'Breguet' indices of this era, is how Movado chose to actually apply 'cropped' numerals at the 2, 4, 8, & 10 o'clock position, where they easily could have skipped them all together and nobody would have thought twice about it. This detail is a great example of Movado exercising their prowess in detail and manufacturing during this time. The indices are complimented by a yellow gold 'sword' handset with blued-steel chronograph hands within the registers and for the center second hand. The dial itself shows patina and signs of aging throughout, largely on the outer edge while the center area of the dial shows less aging and remains clean.

Of course, this piece is powered by Movado's fantastic in-house Calibre M90 manually-wound movement.

M90s (and M95s) have become extremely coveted by collectors and don't come to market as often as you may think... This example in its well-rounded, honest example features some extra spice that collectors go crazy for, and we are here for it.