Universal Genève Compur Ref. 22517 - 'Jumbo' w/ Rare Black Dial Unpolished

Universal Genève was one of the many great brands that succumbed to the quartz crisis of the 1970s. While they disappeared, it was not for their lack of impressive watches. To underscore that fact, keep in mind that Henri Stern Watch Agency in their nearly 80-year history has only ever sold two brands: Patek Philippe, and Universal Genève.

The piece that we have here hails from the early 1940s — a time when the world was at war. Predating the more recognizable ‘Compax’ line of watches were a few different chronographs produced with specific use-cases in mind (e.g., Film-Compax, Medico-Compax, Dato-Compax, etc.) this 'Compur' chronograph was a relatively straightforward two-register chronograph in the family. Far simpler than their perhaps better known high complication ‘Tri-Compax,' the Compur were still offered with a variety of cases and dial variants and utilized in-house Universal Genève calibres.

This particular Reference 22517 is quite simply the finest we have ever seen. Dating to circa 1941, it features a 37mm stainless steel case with thick and prominent 'faceted' lugs, which also features 'chamfers' on the top edge. In unpolished condition, its hard to imagine seeing a nicer one. On the right side of the case there is a crown at 3 o'clock to wind and set the movement and two rectangular pushers, which also feature beautiful chamfered-edges, to run the chronograph. Inside, unlike so many Compurs out there, this one not only features a stunning glossy black dial, but one in flat-out exceptional condition. Beautifully preserved throughout, the surface is clean and clear, seemingly devoid of any major wear. The text, 'concentric' finishing within the subsidiary registers, and the Radium numerals are all in fantastic condition. The correct 'kite' handset has been professionally color-matched to the dial with Tritium — a very tasteful and necessary touch. Powering this piece is UG's Cal. 287 manual-winding movement.

Design details like the dynamic and perfectly-sized case, the two-register dial layout with cropped indices, the matching rectangular pushers with the chamfered edged, and that deep glossy black dial amount to a piece that clearly shows why Universal Genève was ultimately considered to be one of the finest manufactures in the era.

Examples in condition like this with a desirable configuration simply do not surface on the open market all that often... and with the recent re-launch of the brand, collectors seem to be holding on to pieces like this, making for a great opportunity to grab this one.