Universal Genève Compax Ref. 885103/02 - 'Nina Rindt' W/ Box & Papers

Universal Genève was one of the many great brands that succumbed to the quartz crisis of the 1970s. While they disappeared, it was not for their lack of impressive watches. To underscore that fact, keep in mind that Henri Stern Watch Agency in their nearly 80-year history has only ever sold two brands: Patek Philippe, and Universal Genève.

This watch hails from their mid-century efforts, known simply as the ‘Compax’. Far simpler than their better known high complication ‘Tri-Compax,' these elegant watches featured twisted-lug cases produced by Huguenin Frères and in-house Universal Genève calibres.

This Compax, a Reference 885103/02, known to collectors as a 'Nina,' remains in excellent overall condition. The twisted 'lyre' lug case is unpolished and shows normal signs of wear throughout, with one small hairline fracture present above the upper pusher. The black aluminum tachymetre insert fitted within the externally-mounted steel bezel shows matching normal wear. Inside the case is the real highlight of this piece: the 'panda' dial. With a white base and black subsidiary registers, this configuration has become highly desirable amongst collectors in the last decade or so, and the 'Nina' is a cult favorite. This one is a 'MK1' variant, which utilizes an applied 'U' logo on the top half, vs the later printed 'U' logo that came with the subsequent variant. This 'MK1' also features the correct polished steel hour and minute hands, 'thin' sub-register handset, and blued-steel chronograph hand — all correct for early Ninas. The condition of the dial itself is excellent, with one small area of discoloration within the 12-hr subsidiary register at the 6 o'clock position and evenly-colored luminous plots.

Additionally, this piece retains its correct early signed crown, correct endlinks, and correct Gay Frères stainless steel 'double-grain beads-of-rice' bracelet.

And there's more! Acoompanying this piece is it's box, a Universal Genève strap with an original signed steel buckle, and papers bearing the name of the original owner, which matches the initials and date engraved on the caseback. Very cool indeed.

Design details like the sporty triple-register layout of the dial, the twisted-lug case, the externally affixed bezel, and the high-grade manual-winding movement within, culminate to form a chronograph that is, to some, just as enticing or interesting as its competitors of the era...

This particular piece with it's thorough completeness and box set is truly something special to behold, and they do not surface on the open market often. Have at it!