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Rolex Submariner Ref. 5512 - 'Meters First'
Rolex Submariner Ref. 5512 - 'Meters First'
Rolex Submariner Ref. 5512 - 'Meters First'
Rolex Submariner Ref. 5512 - 'Meters First'
Rolex Submariner Ref. 5512 - 'Meters First'
Rolex Submariner Ref. 5512 - 'Meters First'
Rolex Submariner Ref. 5512 - 'Meters First'
Rolex Submariner Ref. 5512 - 'Meters First'
Rolex Submariner Ref. 5512 - 'Meters First'
Rolex Submariner Ref. 5512 - 'Meters First'
Rolex Submariner Ref. 5512 - 'Meters First'
Rolex Submariner Ref. 5512 - 'Meters First'
Rolex Submariner Ref. 5512 - 'Meters First'
Rolex Submariner Ref. 5512 - 'Meters First'

Rolex Submariner Ref. 5512 - 'Meters First'

Sale price$18,750.00 USD

The Rolex Submariner is a true icon — and the word "icon" does get thrown around an awful lot. If you were to ask ten people at random to draw you their idea of a watch looks like, chances are they would draw or describe something that looks like a Rolex Submariner. It’s the dive watch of reference, and good/bad/indifferent there is no escaping it. Throughout its 70-year production, there have been countless small changes made to the model, with the Reference 5512 representing a very interesting period in the Submariner story.

The Ref. 5512 was originally sold alongside the 5513 as an up-market chronometer certified version of the venerable dive watch icon. During its production run, the 5512 series transitioned from the glossy gilt dials of the early 1960s, to matte dials in the later examples — as well as a bevy of different case and crown guard shapes.

The piece that we have here is a matte dial example dating to circa 1967. It is known within the collector community as a 'Meters First' 5512 for its printing of the depth rating on the dial beginning with meters, followed by the equivalent in feet. This is the only execution of matte dials with this configuration. This example comes to us in outstanding overall condition. The case has been professionally restored to factory specification, with correct finishing and gorgeous prominent chamfers on the lugs. It shows light signs of wear throughout with a few additional scuffs. The bezel assembly appears to be unpolished, retaining defined finishing and shows matching wear. The insert inside is a correct 'MK3' unit and it exhibits a very attractive navy blue fade and has a gently patinated Tritium pip. Inside, the 'Meters First' dial is beautifully preserved — seemingly devoid of any wear or imperfections. The Tritium plots are 'puffy' and exhibit a light and even patina throughout, and the handset matches perfectly. Last but not least, this piece comes fitted to a correct 'rivet' Oyster bracelet with a signed blade clasp.

For many of us, this is what vintage is all about: subtle details, honest condition that tells a story, and uniqueness in wear/patina. This one embodies all of the above!

Stainless Steel 1967 Automatic 40mm
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Condition Report & Details

Condition:

Case: Professionally restored to factory specification, with correct brushing and chamfers on all 4 lugs. Shows light signs of wear throughout with one scuff on the left case profile and an impression on the lower edge of the upper right lug.

Bezel: Seemingly unpolished, with defined factory finishing and showing matching light wear. The correct black 'MK3' insert is also in excellent condition, showing an attractive navy blue fade with a gently patinated Tritium pip.

Dial: Outstanding, beautifully preserved and seemingly devoid of any wear or imperfections. The Tritium plots exhibit a light and even patina with only one faint area of discoloration on the 9:00 plot. The handset matches perfectly to the naked eye and under UV inspection.

Movement:

Automatic-winding chronometer certified caliber by Rolex.

Bracelet/Strap:

Period-correct Rolex stainless steel 'rivet' Oyster bracelet with 19 links and signed blade clasp stamped '1-69.' Very lightly previously polished, showing matching light wear throughout with mild stretch. Sized for ≈ 7.5" wrist.

"As collectors themselves, Oliver and Clarke are on a mission to make buying vintage watches as painless as possible."

"The company focuses on good prices for its pieces, elite customer service and full transparency."

"The appointment-only space is inviting, with comfortable seating areas and exposed brick walls."

From Rolex & Patek Philippe, to Cartier & Audemars Piguet. As collectors first, we love the small details that separate the Submariner from Daytona and Calatrava from Royal Oak. This is why you'll find our curated assortment spans decades of generations of models and brands. We believe that watches don't just tell time, they tell history - and life is too short to wear a boring watch.

Oliver & Clarke