Rolex Submariner Ref. 5512 - Immaculate Gilt '4-Liner' Dial
The Rolex Submariner is a true icon - and the word icon does get thrown around a lot. If you were to ask 10 people to draw you their idea of a watch looks like - chances are they would draw or describe something that looks like a Rolex Submariner. It’s the dive watch of reference good/bad/indifferent there is no escaping it. Over its 70 year run there have been numerous changes made to the model, but this 5512 represents a very interesting period in the Submariner story.
The Ref. 5512 was originally sold alongside the 5513 as an up-marker chronometer certified version of the venerable dive-watch icon. During its brief run, the 5512 series moved from the gilt dials of the early 1960s to matte dials - as well as a bevy of different case and crown guard shapes. The present example hails from the early years of the 5512 production run where gilt printed dials were still in use by the brand. Gilt dials are when the lettering and fonts are punched out of the dial so that the brass ‘gilt’ color shows through creating a golden text appearance. These are not very easy to produce and were ultimately discontinued by Rolex in the later half of the 1960s as they couldn’t be produced in the same quantity as a matte dial - but nothing shines and glows like a Rolex gilt dial.
These late 5512 hail from an era when the Submariner was still mostly used by people who needed the ruggedness and capability of a true sports dive watch, but was starting to gain traction with professionals who worked in office settings too - and of course after it was discontinued, all Submariner’s began to bare the ‘Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified’ text on the dial.
This watch is in truly outstanding conditionpresenting a truly flawless dial and very well preserved case. It is fair to say that watches like this, preserved with these truly untouched dials do not come up for sale anymore. Collectors have held onto these best-in-class examples making this an incredible opportunity. The equally stunning and original bezel is of the ‘Long 5’ variety and while not the case with the simpler 2-line 5513 - this dial has same 4-lines of text we have come to expect from the Submariner, proclaiming its superlative chronometer status. This is a special one, and with the 70th Anniversary of the Submariner in 2023, what better way to celebrate.
*Some marks or spots on the dial are reflections or dust on the crystal and are due to high intensity strobe lighting used while photographing. They are not actually on the watch or visible in natural lighting.
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From Rolex & Patek Philippe, to Cartier & Audemars Piguet. As collectors first, we love the small details that separate the Submariner from Daytona and Calatrava from Royal Oak. This is why you'll find our curated assortment spans decades of generations of models and brands. We believe that watches don't just tell time, they tell history - and life is too short to wear a boring watch.
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