Rolex Submariner Ref. 5512 - 'Gilt' Unpolished

The Rolex Submariner is a true icon — and the word "icon" does get thrown around an awful lot. If you were to ask ten people at random to draw you their idea of a watch looks like, chances are they would draw or describe something that looks like a Rolex Submariner. It’s the dive watch of reference, and good/bad/indifferent there is no escaping it. Throughout its 70-year production, there have been countless small changes made to the model, with the Reference 5512 representing a very interesting period in the Submariner story.

The Ref. 5512 was originally sold alongside the 5513 as an up-market chronometer certified version of the venerable dive watch icon. During its production run, the 5512 series transitioned from the glossy gilt dials of the early 1960s, to matte dials in the later examples — as well as a bevy of different case and crown guard shapes.

The piece that we have here hails from the early years of the 5512 production run where gilt printed dials were still in use by the brand. Gilt dials are when the lettering and fonts are punched out of the dial so that the brass ‘gilt’ color shows through creating a golden text appearance. These are not very easy to produce and were ultimately discontinued by Rolex in the later half of the 1960s, as they couldn’t be produced in the same quantity as a matte dial - but nothing shines and glistens quite like these gilt dials.

Dating to circa 1964, this example comes to us in outstanding overall condition. The case remains unpolished, with clear and prominent factory chamfers and thick lugs at all four corners. It shows normal signs of wear throughout with a few scuffs and scratches on each case profile. The bezel assembly is also seemingly unpolished and retains strong factory finishing with a crisp black insert and patinated Tritium pip. Inside, the glossy black 'gilt' dial is in equally outstanding condition to that of the case. It has a clean glossy black surface, seemingly devoid of any crazing or obvious wear and tother than a minor chip to the 8 o'clock plot, he Tritium elements remain fully-intact. The handset has been professionally color-matched and it looks fantastic. It comes fitted with a period-correct Jubilee bracelet with a signed blade clasp — also in unpolished condition with matching normal wear.

It is fair to say that watches like this, preserved in this kind of condition with an untouched case and dial do not surface often. Collectors tend to hold onto these best-in-class examples making this an incredible opportunity to snag this one.