Rolex Submariner Date Ref. 1680/8 - Matte Black 'Nipple' Dial

The Rolex Submariner is a true icon — and the word "icon" does get thrown around an awful lot. If you were to ask ten people at random to draw you their idea of what a watch looks like, there is a significant chance that they would draw or describe something that looks like a Rolex Submariner. It’s the dive watch of reference, and good/bad/indifferent there is no escaping it. Throughout its 70-year production, there have been countless small changes made to the model, particularly in the first decade or so, with the 1680/8 representing a true landmark in the history of the model.

In the case of the piece that we have here (no pun intended), its the metal that it is constructed out of.

At the tail end of the 1960's Rolex had already become aware that their watches were not only being bought and worn by those who needed them to do a job, but also by individuals wanting a premium product. Enter the Submariner Date finished in solid 18k yellow gold: the Reference 1680/8.

The example that we have here dates to circa 1977 and comes to us with a thick, professionally refurbished case with prominent chamfers on the lugs, only light signs of wear throughout, and no significant blemishes or damage. The matching yellow gold Oyster bracelet shows light refurbishing and exhibits matching light wear with only minor stretch. The real treat with this Reference though, is that matte black 'nipple' dial inside. This one remains in fantastic overall condition, with evenly patinated indices and a matching handset, and virtually no wear to the matte black surface. The black aluminum bezel insert compliments the dial, and remains crisp with a matching Tritium pip.

It could be argued that a yellow gold GMT-Master makes sense, but a solid gold dive watch? There is no point. And that is exactly what makes it great.