Rolex GMT-Master Ref. 1675/3 - Two-Tone Nipple Dial
What is a Nipple Dial?
Let’s rewind the clock to the 1950s. Pan American World Airways, is in talks with Boeing to launch the worlds first passenger jetliner, massively shortening the time between American and European Nations. It does however, present an interesting dilemma. Pilots need to be able to tell time in two places at the same time with a very quick glance. Who does Juan Trippe turn to? Rolex. While worldtimers and GMTs were not a new invention - the way Rolex chose to answer it was incredibly novel AND simple. The addition of a ‘slow’ 24 hour hand that made one revolution per day and a simple change of the bezel to a military 24 hour time would allow the wearer to quickly read time in two places at once. Points awarded here for mechanical simplicity, and execution. The bezel would be in two different colors to represent AM/PM times, and those colors would be the PanAm colors of Red & Blue (naturally). While the watch was developed rather quickly and the first generation 6542 released in the mid 50s, the Boeing Jetliner (the 707) took a little longer to develop. That being said, when PanAm flew the 707 on its maiden flight from New Yorks Idlewild Airport (not yet JFK!) to Paris (with onboard catered food from Maxim’s of Paris!) it was the Rolex GMT-Master on the flight crews wrist.
Which leads us to the present example GMT-Master, a second generation 1675. While the 6542 GMT was a great watch, it was not without its flaws. The 1675 saw the introduction of crown guards, aluminum bezels … AND Two-Tone. While the 6542 was available in all-gold, the 1675 reference gave us several combinations of Bi-Metal with the present 1675/3 having inspired the most recent releases from Rolex this year at Watches & Wonders. The changes are subtle, but impactful. The Rolex Crown is rendered in 18K yellow gold, as is the rotating 24 Hour bezel. These watches also recieved a unique aluminum bezel insert in all black, with yellow font to harmonize with the gold accents on the case and bracelet. It is no wonder that these are among collectors favorite GMT variants. The dial has what is known as ‘Nipple’ Indices - because of their small round appearance with a small circle of lume crowning the top of them. The indices themselves also rendered in 18K gold.
The case is fixed to a beautiful two-tone jubilee which is in exceptional condition, which was produced in Rolex’s Mexico-based factory and is stamped ‘Hencho in Mexico’ for another interesting layer to this worldly watch. Say it with us - GMT ON JUBILEE! The only way to fly.
*Some marks or spots on the dial are reflections or dust on the crystal and are due to high intensity strobe lighting used while photographing. They are not actually on the watch or visible in natural lighting.
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From Rolex & Patek Philippe, to Cartier & Audemars Piguet. As collectors first, we love the small details that separate the Submariner from Daytona and Calatrava from Royal Oak. This is why you'll find our curated assortment spans decades of generations of models and brands. We believe that watches don't just tell time, they tell history - and life is too short to wear a boring watch.
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