Rolex Datejust Ref. 1600 - Grey 'Sigma' Dial Unpolished

Hard to believe - but the Datejust has been around since 1945. It is far older than its bigger and attention-hogging Submariner brethren. The Datejust was Rolex’s idea of the perfect everyday watch. The robustness of the Oyster case, combined with the elegance of an Oyster Perpetual. The ‘4 digit’ series of Datejust are particularly attractive for their pie-pan dials which offer a layer of three-dimensionality to the dials that went away with the advent of quickset date and 5-digit Datejusts. These early Datejusts were available as the 1601, with a fluted white gold bezel, or the 1603, with an engine-turned steel bezel. The 4-Digit Datejusts were also the first series to become available with a myriad of dial colors and case and bracelet materials.

This particular piece, a Reference 1600 from circa 1975, comes to us with an excellent unpolished case showing honest wear from normal use consistent with its age. The polished steel bezel is also seemingly unpolished, with defined edges and showing matching normal wear. Inside, the sunburst grey 'Sigma' dial is beautifully preserved. It shows just faint signs of degradation around the tip of the 6 o'clock marker — typical of colored dials from this era — and retains almost entirely fully-intact Tritium plots which shows an attractive, uniform patina. The handset matches nicely and shows light oxidation on the surface and minor degradation to the Tritium material. This piece comes fitted to a correct solid-link Oyster bracelet with a signed blade clasp which, we think, suits this watch perfectly.

The combination of the smooth polished bezel, the subtle nature of the grey dial, and the sporty Oyster bracelet allow for a more restrained, easy wearing experience. And while Ref. 1601 and 1603s aren't exactly 'loud,' theres something Explorer I-like about this example while still being, of course, a Datejust.