Patek Philippe Perpetual Chronograph Ref. 3970ER - 4th Series Silver Dial w/ Box, Papers, & Service Tag

As far as brand identity goes, Patek Philippe, unlike many brands, is seemingly free of being associated with any one model in particular, and instead enjoys a reputation for quality, craftsmanship, and a long-standing pedigree as a top Swiss manufacturer.

Of course, there are models and model families that are nothing short of horological icons (e.g., Nautilus, Calatrava, Aquanaut, etc.), but for some, the absolute epitome of the brand is manifested in the complicated chronographs.

While no-one will dispute Patek's watchmaking abilities and their exceptional in-house movements, like so many brands, even Patek's flagship complicated chronographs relied on externally sourced Swiss calibers until relatively recently — most notably from Lemania, and Valjoux even earlier. These weren’t ordinary movements but expertly refined ébauches, reflecting a traditional approach in which maisons like Patek partnered with the finest specialists available. In the late 20th century, Lemania was among the best of those collaborators.

The Ref. 3970 debuted in 1986 and is the successor to the venerable Ref. 2499. The example that we have here, specifically a Ref. 3970ER, dates to the last year of production, 2004, and is an waterproof variant constructed out of rose gold. The case comes in at a nicely sized 36mm in diameter, with nice long lugs, 'pump' pushers, a signed crown, and a screw-down caseback. It also has 'micro-pushers' between both the 12 and 6 o'clock lugs as well as on the left case profile for setting slew of complications that the Calibre CH 27-70 Q manual-winding movement features. The dial inside is a brilliant display of both thoughtful design and restraint, while still being both legible and functional. The silver surface is adorned with applied rose gold 'stud' and 'pencil' indices, three subsidiary registers, a moonphase aperture, day & date apertures, and a rose gold 'pencil' handset to match. Somehow, all of this functionality is packaged within a watch the diameter of a Datejust and only marginally thicker — or rather, less thin.

This very special piece was recently serviced by Patek and is accompanied by a serialized service hangtag, service pouch, an additional brown leather strap, it's box, booklets, leather folder, additional solid rose gold caseback, and certificate of origin dated 1/21/2004.

There are watches, and then there are watches! This is one of the latter.