Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5022J - White Porcelain 'Breguet' Dial w/ Box & Papers

The Patek Philippe Calatrava. Arguably the brands most iconic model line, and purest expression of the brand. Their raison d'etre if you will.

The line has been a hit since its debut in 1932. So much so, that the name "Calatrava" itself has become something of a byword within the watch industry for traditionally styled, no-frills dress watches that simply tell the time. Over the course of its nearly 100-years of production, there have been seemingly countless iterations within the line, with variations in the metal they are made in, with their size, dial configurations, and eventually, complications.

The Calatrava that we have here is a Reference 5022J from circa 2000. The 33mm case is crafted out of solid yellow gold and in traditional Calatrava fashion, is wonderfully executed simplicity. It is extremely svelte, with gently downward curving lugs, a signed crown at the 3 o'clock position, and a small 'step' from the bezel to the mid-case. It must be said that the dial inside is the real standout feature here. The stark white surface is made from porcelain, rather than a painted surface. The resulting look has more depth and almost a 'wet' appearance. It features high-contrast, black painted 'Breguet' indices as well as a 'railroad' minute track and subsidiary seconds register and is complimented by a matching blued-steel 'Breguet' handset. It is powered by Patek's proven Cal. 215 manual-winding movement and comes fitted to a signed brown alligator strap with its correct signed yellow gold buckle.

Furthermore, this piece is accompanied by its inner and outer boxes, a leather folder with booklets, and certificate of origin dated 10/24/2000.

This reference, with its if you know, you know dial, traditional proportions and appeal, and its overall condition, remains something of a slept on gem in the vast Calatrava range.