Movado Sub Sea Datron Ref. HS360 - 'Cushion Case'

While it may be hard to imagine based upon their product line today, Movado Laboratories (yes, that was the full name) once made watches that were beautifully designed, well made, and respected — up there with some other great manufacturers.

Some of their more sought-after models include the M90 and M95 chronographs of the 1940s - 1960s, both time-only and complicated references that utilized case designs shared with brands like Patek Philippe, Mido, and DOXA, and the Sub Sea range of watches like the piece that we have here.

These were from the 1960s into the late 1970s and included wide a variety of movements, cases, dial configurations, and complications — a collectors fantasy!

This particular example, a Datron Ref. HS360, is a late model with a very interesting story that intertwines with another prominent manufacturer: Zenith. In 1968, Movado was acquired by Zenith where the Movado-Zenith-Mondia Group was formed, which was convenient for Zenith who happened to be facing some trademark issues with their name with the Electronic company also called Zenith. With the acquisition of the strong name that Movado had, a handful of models were branded Movado to be sold in the U.S. market. The Datron HS360 was one of those watches.

Naturally, it bears very close resemblance to the design language of Zenith, differing only in that it does not say Zenith anywhere on the dial, case, or inside the caseback. The HS360 was offered with a variety of dial colors as well as metals, with the solid 18k yellow gold example that we have here easily being the most uncommon.

The 'tonneau' case comes in at 38mm in diameter and features a screw-down caseback, yellow gold 'pump' pushers, and a yellow gold crown. The dial inside is a desirable white with black subsidiary registers 'panda' configuration, which has developed a light patina across the surface over the years. It has applied yellow gold indices filled with Tritium, a matching yellow gold Tritium handset, and a black chapter ring framing everything. A design detail that we are big fans of in particular is the contrasting black date disc at the 12 o'clock position.

This is all great and extremely attractive, but the best part, it must be said, is that this piece utilized the very same, legendary Cal. 3019 automatic-winding El Primero movement found in Zenith models from this era.

As it pertains to vintage collecting, this checks a heck of a lot of boxes; An interesting story between two amazing brands, strong condition, excellent proportions and sizing, and unique patina really embodies everything that makes vintage great. What more can you ask for?

This is a very interesting watch with many layers to its story and has enthusiast written all over it.