Movado Polyplan Ref. 4005 - Silver 'Exploding' Dial w/ Box

While it may be hard to imagine based upon their product line today, Movado Laboratories (yes, that was the full name) once made watches that were beautifully designed, well made, and respected — up there with the very best manufacturers. 

Some of their more sought-after models include the M90 and M95 chronographs of the 1940s - 1970s, the Sub-Sea range, and both time-only and complicated pieces that utilized case designs shared with brands like Patek Philippe, Mido, and DOXA. 

Those are all great models. We love them, and even collect them, but it allows for lesser-known and even incredibly important pieces to slide through the cracks for most collectors...

Take the watch that we have here for example: a Polyplan from circa the late 1910s.

It's namesake is derived from the multi-plane (polyplan) movement within, which features a flat middle section with two 25° planes on each end. This innovate design allows for a full-size movement to be used within many of the stunning and whimsical curved case shapes that Movado is associated with during this era.

This particular piece comes in at 20mm x 44mm and is crafted out of silver. The case, as you'd expect, features a pronounced curve. On both the top and bottom, you'll find 'hinged' wire lugs, a crown at the 12 o'clock position, and a hinged case closure at the 6 o'clock position. Inside, the silver dial shows patina and wear from age, but presents very nicely for a watch — or really anything — of this age. The whimsical, stylized-'exploding' Arabic indices with the blued-steel handset are breathtaking when they catch your gaze. Beneath the dial is Movado's Calibre 400 'Polyplan' movement beating away.

Once more, included with this piece is its period box, complete with a fitted lining specific for the Polyplan.

In our opinion, and we know there are a handful of other dealers and enthusiasts out there that share this viewpoint, there are not many brands that get design this right. Simple as that.