Lemania Monopusher Chronograph Ref. 0552/924-3306 - Gloss White Non-Luminous Dial w/ Moisture Indicator

Lemania can trace its roots back to the Vallée de Joux, where it was founded in 1884 by Alfred Lugrin, a former Jaeger-LeCoultre craftsman with a talent for complicated movements. Operating first under his own name, Lugrin built a modest but formidable reputation through his chronograph work before his son-in-law Marius Meylan took the reins around 1930 and renamed the company Lemania.

Survival through the Great Depression came by joining forces with Omega and Tissot in 1932, and it was within the newly-formed alliance that Lemania's true legacy was forged: Every Omega chronograph movement for the next four decades, including the the iconic Calibre .321, would be supplied or closely based off Lemania calibres.

The Quartz Crisis of the 1970s nearly unravelled it all, and by 1981 Lemania had separated from the group and reborn itself as Nouvelle Lemania. A decade later, Breguet brought it into the fold, and when the Swatch Group absorbed Breguet in 1999, the Lemania name was quietly retired — though its workshops now forming movements for Manufacture Breguet.

The piece that we have here is a monopusher chronograph issued to the British Royal Navy for one very specific use-case.

Like virtually every military-issued watch for decades prior be it a diver or for aviation, they were produced with luminous dials for legibility in generally low-light environments, at night, and for underwater use. In the 1970s, the luminous element of choice was Tritium, which while extremely low relative to its predecessor, Radium, does emit a radioactive signature. On nuclear-powered submarines, the worst case scenario is a reactor leak (see K19: The Widowmaker), so as a preventative measure, these subs had radiation detectors everywhere to monitor and ultimately prevent an almost certainly catastrophic event like a nuclear reactor meltdown. So, had the occupants been wearing watches with Tritium all over the dial and hands, the geiger readings would be completely inaccurate and constantly firing.

Thats where this piece comes in, with a dial devoid of any radioactive material. More on that later.

The stainless steel case comes in at 39.5mm in diameter with asymmetrical proportions, not dissimilar to a twisted-lug Speedmaster, where the right side of the case is thicker to partially conceal the crown. It also has ‘fixed’-bar lugs, a single pusher at the 2 o’clock position to operate the chronograph, and a screw-down caseback with the appropriate military engravings. Inside the dial features a crisp, stark white surface with printed black numerals, a black ‘Broad Arrow’ on the lower half, and a matching black ‘syringe’ handset. Not only is completely devoid of luminescent paint as we alluded to earlier, but it also features a moisture indicator just above the center post. Like a handful of dive watches, this round spot would change color in the event that moisture found its way into the watch. Very. Cool.

It is powered by Lemania’s manually-wound Calibre and comes fitted with a very fitting NATO strap from Phoenix.

Not only is this a piece of history, but when compared to other military-issued pieces from other brands, this actually is fantastic value, and they sure don't grow on trees!