Cartier Tank Chinois 'Extra Plate' - White Enamel 'Paris' Dial

The Cartier Tank was one of the first wristwatches. Full stop!

Inspired by the Renault Tanks used on the battlefield in WWI — yes, true story. Revolutionary at the time, Louis Cartier took inspiration from the profile of the treads on a period Renault tank, and based the case on them by way of the of brancards doubling as the lugs themselves. Over the course of the 20^th Century, the Tank became the watch to wear. Silent movie stars like Rudolph Valentino, artists like Andy Warhol, and even Jackie Kennedy were all fans of the signature timepiece from the King of Jewelers and the Jeweler of Kings. An icon indeed in the truest sense of the word.

The model was first introduced in a few different case shapes which bore different names that intertwine with the inspiration behind them.

The example that we have here, a Tank 'Chinois,' came about in 1922 and was conceived with inspiration from the far east. During this time, the western world was drawing influence from countries like China and Japan, which manifested in many forms of design including but not limited to architecture, attire, and jewelry.

Like many Cartier models, there have been numerous iterations since its introduction, with the example that we have here dating to circa the early 1970s.

Crafted out of yellow gold, the case is approximately 23mm x 31mm, virtually the same proportions as the classic Tank Louis — though notably thinner. The standout features include the horizontal 'brancards' that extend beyond the width of the mid-case, with beautiful brushed and polished finishing, and an octagonal sapphire cabochon crown. Inside, the white enamel 'Paris'-signed dial is nicely preserved, with fantastic black printing and a blued-steel sword handset. The ultra-thin profile is thanks to Cartiers Cal. 21 manual-winding movement. It comes fitted to an attractive brown leather strap with a correct yellow gold deployant clasp.

Far rarer than your typical Tank Louis of the era — or even the Tank Louis 'Extra Plate,' the Chinois presents a nearly identical wearing experience with a bit of additional design flair.