Breitling Pilot's Chronorgaph Ref. 817 - Italian Army Issued Unpolished

Breitling has a long and rich history in chronographs — with an emphasis on aviation chronographs. No doubt, their most well-known model family is the Navitimer, with its characteristic 'slide-rule' rotating bezel and inner ring, but the Navitimer was actually preceded by Chronomat. From ten feet, these look a lot like the Navitimer, utilizing the same materials, dial colors, and a manually-wound chronograph movement, but are actually quite a bit more digestible when it comes to legibility and size.

The example that we have here is chronograph Ref. 817 issued to Italian Army Helicopter Pilots in the mid-1970s. This particular example dates to circa 1975 and is offered in fantastic overall condition. The 'CP-1' case comes in at 39.5mm in diameter, vs the notable later 'CP-2' watches which measure in at 42mm in diameter. It utilized 'pump' pushers, an oversized crown, a screw-down caseback, and a solid-piece black aluminum rotating timing bezel. The case remains unpolished, with thick, symmetrical, and sharp lugs at each corner and shows what could be considered only light wear given the action that this piece was intended for. The bezel in particular is wonderfully preserved. Inside, the black dial exhibits light wear on the surface and retains evenly patinated Tritium indices. The incredibly legible white-painted 'sword' handset has aged more creamy than the dial, which is typical for this model, and presents beautifully. Powering this piece is a robust workhorse manual-winding movement by Valjoux.

Last but not least, this piece comes fitted to the original elasticized steel bracelet that it was issued on — a true rarity!

Produced for only a few years, it is estimated that less than 1000 unites were ever delivered and many destroyed after service. So, when one surfaces in exceptional condition like this example, it is noteworthy both to dealers and collectors alike.