Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Ref. 56023ST - 'Jumbo Quartz' w/ 'Tropical' Dial Unpolished

It’s not unfair to say that Audemars Piguet Royal Oak is one of the most iconic watches ever made. Designed in 1972 by Gerald Genta, the Royal Oak completely changed the way that we look at a steel sports watch. For the first time, stainless steel was treated as a precious metal - receiving complex finishing techniques of brushing, polishing, and beveling - all by hand. The idea that its eight hexagonal bezel screws would be finely finished and left exposed for the wearer to see was a revolutionary thought. It’s no surprise that the model became the calling card for the family owned Audemars Piguet - not to mention one of the most sought after watches in the world. While the initial 5402 was time-only, AP quickly began to capitalize on the success of the Royal Oak and begin to integrate other complications and variations into this case.

Which leads us to the Royal Oak that we have here, a Reference 56023ST. These pieces embody the ethos of the original Ref. 5402 'Jumbo' models, just in a slightly smaller and equally svelte 35mm case. In fact, at a glance, the only thing that differentiates it from its larger sibling, is the presence of a running central seconds hand.

This particular example dates to circa the early 1980s and comes to us in absolutely outstanding overall condition. The case, bezel assembly, and bracelet all remain unpolished with strong factory finishing visible throughout and show uniform naormla wear from age. The dial within is no doubt the highlight here, having developed a very attractive brown 'tropical' patina from age. This is where the brass baseplate of the dial starts to show throughout the grey finishing on the 'micro-tapisserie' textured surface. The resulting patina is largely uniform and incredibly attractive. The applied Tritium-filled indices and handset also match beautifully to one another.

Last but not least, this piece is powered by a grab-and-go Quartz movement. A very rare find in this 35mm size as most Quarts Royal Oaks were 33mm, this has earned the nickname the 'Jumbo Quartz.'

The 35mm size lends itself to, we think, a more comfortable wearing experience for more people, in fact, we'd say virtually any wrist, versus the way a full size 39mm Royal Oak which can fit a little odd on some wrists due to how flat it is. These watches strike the perfect balance between the size and value proposition that a Royal Oak can offer.

Whats not to like?