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Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Ref. 5402SA - Two Tone 'Jumbo'

SOLD

It’s not unfair to say that Audemars Piguet Royal Oak is one of the most iconic watches ever made. Designed in 1972 by Gerald Genta, the first Royal Oak completely changed the way that we look at a steel sports watch. For the first time, stainless steel was treated as a precious metal, receiving complex finishing techniques of brushing, polishing, and beveling, all by hand. The idea that its eight hexagonal bezel screws would be finely finished and left exposed for the wearer to see was a revolutionary thought. It’s no reason that the model became the calling card for the family owned Audemars Piguet — not to mention one of the most sought after watches in the world. This is of course, the Reference 5402.

These were available in stainless steel, two-tone steel & yellow gold, and solid yellow gold and all examples measure 39mm in diameter. While that may not seem ‘Jumbo’ by the standards of today, that was considerably larger than most watches in the 1970s — especially when you factor in the integrated bracelet which contributes to an even larger feel when on the wrist.

The example that we have here is a two-tone stainless steel and yellow gold piece, and an early one! Dating to circa 1978, this piece is from the second year that two-two examples were produced, and it comes to us in well-preserved overall condition. The case and matching integrated bracelet show signs of having been lightly polished at an earlier time, retaining correct finishing in the required areas. Additionally, it shows normal wear from age and use and some sleeve-polish with no major blemishes or damage to speak of. Inside, the grey 'micro-tappisserie' textured dial is very nicely preserved. The surface is clean and consistent in color and retains excellent white text on the top half. The applied Tritium-filled indices are evenly patinated and the handset matches beautifully.

Two-tone watches are polarizing — without a doubt. However, there is something about a two-tone Royal Oak, in any form, that just works. The two metals are perfectly distributed in the form of the bracelet links, the bezel, and the dial components, and amount to a very well-rounded wearing experience.

Combined with a nice example light the one offered here and you've got a winner.

Two-Tone Circa 1978 Automatic 39mm

"As collectors themselves, Oliver and Clarke are on a mission to make buying vintage watches as painless as possible."

"The company focuses on good prices for its pieces, elite customer service and full transparency."

"The appointment-only space is inviting, with comfortable seating areas and exposed brick walls."

From Rolex & Patek Philippe, to Cartier & Audemars Piguet. As collectors first, we love the small details that separate the Submariner from Daytona and Calatrava from Royal Oak. This is why you'll find our curated assortment spans decades of generations of models and brands. We believe that watches don't just tell time, they tell history - and life is too short to wear a boring watch.

Oliver & Clarke