Universal Genève Compax Ref. 885108 - 'Exotic Nina'

Universal Genève was one of the many great brands that succumbed to the quartz crisis of the 1970s. While they disappeared, it was not for their lack of impressive watches. To underscore that fact, keep in mind that Henri Stern Watch Agency in their nearly 80-year history has only ever sold two brands: Patek Philippe, and Universal Genève.

This watch hails from their mid-century efforts, known simply as the ‘Compax’. Far simpler than their better known high complication ‘Tri-Compax,' these elegant watches featured twisted-lug cases produced by Huguenin Frères and in-house Universal Genève calibres.

This Compax, a Reference 885108, known to collectors as an 'Exotic Nina,' remains in excellent overall condition, with an exceptionally clean exotic 3-register with a matching handset, a correct teal bezel insert showing signs of age and wear (hey, can't be too picky with these), and UG's manually-wound Calibre 85 movement inside. It comes fitted to a period steel bracelet with a blade clasp. 

Design details like the sporty triple-register layout of the dial, the twisted-lug case, and the externally affixed bezel and insert culminate to form a chronograph that is, to some, just as enticing or interesting as its competitors of the era.