Skip to content

Cart

Your cart is empty

Rolex Submariner Ref. 5512 - 'Meters First' Matte Dial Unpolished

SOLD

The Rolex Submariner is a true icon — and the word "icon" does get thrown around an awful lot. If you were to ask ten people at random to draw you their idea of what a watch looks like, there is a significant chance that they would draw or describe something that looks like a Rolex Submariner. It’s the dive watch of reference, and good/bad/indifferent there is no escaping it. Throughout its 70-year production, there have been countless small changes made to the model, particularly in the first decade or so, with the 5513 representing a true landmark in the history of the model.

The Ref. 5512 was originally sold alongside the 5513 as an up-market chronometer certified version of the venerable dive watch icon. During its production run, the 5512 series transitioned from the glossy gilt dials of the early 1960s, to matte dials in the later examples — as well as a bevy of different case and crown guard shapes.

The 5512 that we have here is a 'matte dial' example dating to circa 1967. It is known within the collecting community as a 'Meters First' 5512, for its somewhat irregular printing of the depth rating on the dial beginning with meters and being followed by the equivalent in feet. The dial itself is in superb overall condition, with a clean matte surface and lightly patinated Tritium plots, and the handset matches beautifully. The case is fantastic. Unpolished, with clear factory chamfers and honest signs of wear and some sleeve-polish throughout with only a few small blemishes present on the lower right lug. The correct 'Long-5' bezel insert exhibits some wear on the inside edge and a very attractive 'charcoal' fade with nicely matching Tritium pip.

This excellent piece comes fitted to a later solid-link Oyster bracelet with a fliplock clasp — also in matching unpolished condition.

For many of us, this is what vintage is all about: subtle details, honest condition that tells a story, and uniqueness in wear/patina. This one embodies all of the above!

Stainless Steel 1967 Unpolished Automatic 40mm

"As collectors themselves, Oliver and Clarke are on a mission to make buying vintage watches as painless as possible."

"The company focuses on good prices for its pieces, elite customer service and full transparency."

"The appointment-only space is inviting, with comfortable seating areas and exposed brick walls."

From Rolex & Patek Philippe, to Cartier & Audemars Piguet. As collectors first, we love the small details that separate the Submariner from Daytona and Calatrava from Royal Oak. This is why you'll find our curated assortment spans decades of generations of models and brands. We believe that watches don't just tell time, they tell history - and life is too short to wear a boring watch.

Oliver & Clarke